Showing posts with label fashion news. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion news. Show all posts

Vogue vs. Fashion Bloggers

September 27, 2016

Chiara Ferragni in front of a sea of photographers via Style Shouts

Is Vogue out of touch when it comes to their views on bloggers?


On Tuesday morning, my Instagram and Twitter feeds were blowing up with angry posts, and it wasn't because of the Presidential Debate. The culprit was Vogue, who posted a recap of Milan Fashion Week that included a pretty harsh discussion about the role of bloggers at fashion shows.

Grace Coddington at American Vogue

January 23, 2016


If you're at all interested in fashion (which I hope you are, since you're reading a fashion blog, but you might be my brother who so nicely reads my blog from time to time even though he's not interested in the world of fashion, so I'll tell you anways) you probably know that Grace Coddington, the wonderful creative director of Vogue, has decided to step down from her role (or at least scale back). Coddington has been with American Vogue since 1988, when editor-in-chief Anna Wintour also joined the esteemed fashion magazine. Twenty-eight years later, Coddington is ready for a new adventure.

While Coddington is a pretty private person, the world got to know her through the phenomenal 2009 documentary The September Issue (which takes the viewer inside the making of Vogue's September issue; if you haven't seen it, I highly recommend it!) and she became somewhat of a celebrity after that.

The September Issue is when I was first introduced to Grace Coddington, and it couldn't have come out at a more pivotal time. I watched it when I was in high school and trying to figure out what exactly I wanted to do with my life. I knew by then that I wanted to work in fashion, but I had realized that being a fashion designer wasn't for me, so I wanted to see what other jobs were out there. After watching the documentary and seeing the visionary way Coddington styles clothes and crafts photoshoot ideas, I realized that creative director is what I wanted to be. And I've been on that journey ever since.

I wanted to share some of my favorite editorials of Coddington's from her time at Vogue. She's just so talented, and has such a wonderful way of looking at fashion that focuses on the fantasy more than the practicality (an increasingly rare worldview when it comes to clothing). Like the late Alexander McQueen or my favorite fashion photographer Tim Walker, Coddington sees the transformative power of fashion and the magic within it. Fashion is not just a means to an end, but rather an important form of self-expression. I'll miss her wonderful work at Vogue, but I cannot wait to see what the future holds for Coddington!

P.S. If you want to learn more about Grace Coddington's career or just want to know a bit more about fashion in general, definitely watch The September Issue and check out Coddington's memoir, Grace.


What are your favorite Grace Coddington-styled editorials? 

See You Later, Raf

October 23, 2015


Raf Simons announces he's stepping down from Christian Dior, fills the fashion crowd with tears.

There are few things that can surprise me these days. I'm a child of the Internet, raised on an era of skepticism and living through a time when a celebrity real estate agent is seriously running for president. I'm not one who's easily shocked.

And yet, today my mouth dropped in shock. That's because Raf Simons announced he was stepping down as head designer for Christian Dior.

The news comes only three years after Simons first joined the Dior team. Before that, he had turned Jil Sander into one of the coolest brands around, and during his time at Dior he raised profits and truly brought Christian Dior into the twenty-first century. His last collection was fresh and modern, with scalloped crop sweaters, sheer gingham dresses, and trendy choker necklaces. Simons was praised for his ability to make simplicity just as beautiful as the over-the-top dramatics of predecessor John Galliano, and he was getting into the swing of things with spectacular results. 

The finale at the Christian Dior Spring 2016 show, via style.com
Alexander Wang's departure from Balenciaga was something we saw coming; from the beginning, the appointment seemed off, so the news of Wang leaving Balenciaga wasn't all that surprising. But for Raf, the news of him coming to Christian Dior was exciting and intriguing, and he ended up really excelling at Dior. 

It remains to be seen what Raf's next step will be, or who will fill his shoes as the new head designer at Christian Dior, but I hope he knows that we're all sad to see him go.


What do you think about Raf leaving Dior? Who do you want to see as the next head designer?

Why Alexander Wang and Balenciaga Just Didn't Work Out

August 4, 2015


It's always sad to hear about celebrity couples breaking up. And I know, I should probably expect it, relationships in the public spotlight rarely ever last, but still, I get a little bit broken up whenever I hear about a truly great celebrity couple calling it quits. Take Kourtney Kardashian and Scott Disick: we all knew that that relationship was about as dysfunctional as a dinner party on The Office, but they were cute! They gave us hope! Without their relationship, we never would have been introduced to the glory that is LORD Disick, and seriously, could you imagine a world without that? I, for one, could not. And it's not like I spend that much time thinking about these couples when they are together, but it's just nice to know that they are there, doing their thing, fighting the odds of Hollywood couple survival rates. It's always sad to hear about a celebrity breakup.

When it comes to designer appointment at fashion houses, it's kind of similar to a celebrity relationship, in a way. You're taking two well-known names and pairing them together in the hopes that together, they will create something beautiful. You don't always know if they're going to work out at first. Some pairings at first seem downright boggling (like Raf Simons when he was given the job at Dior, in my humble opinion) but then you come around to seeing how absolutely magical they are together. Some couplings are simply inevitable—Jeremy Scott finally being given the reigns at Moschino was like waiting for Ashton Kutcher and Mila Kunis to finally get together. But just as it goes with celebrity relationships, designer appointments don't always go over so well. And it's always sad when that time comes.

Some choose to part on friendly terms, like Marc Jacobs did with Louis Vuitton. It was a devastating breakup but it was understandable. Marc pulled the "it's not you, it's me" trick and actually came away looking like a great guy, so props to him. Others are rather tumultuous (John Galliano's infamous departure from Christian Dior comes to mind). Those breakups can get ugly, but it's probably best for everyone involved that the two part ways.

But sometimes, there's a designer-fashion house breakup that comes out of left field, with little to no warning or explanation, that leaves you asking why. Why did this happen? What went wrong? How could we not see this coming? That breakup is, of course, the one between Alexander Wang and the house of Balenciaga.

A look from the Fall 2015 Balenciaga runway show
I had always been hesitant of the partnership back when Wang was appointed creative director of Balenciaga in 2013, as the young contemporary designer did not seem to fit the bill of designer for a legendary high fashion house. I admire Wang's talent, but personally I've never been over-the-top obsessed with his collections in the same way that many people are. They're okay, but they're never wow! If I had to speak of the two names in relation to a celebrity couple, I'd say they were Sean Penn and Charlize Theron, a totally WTF, how-did-those-two-ever-get-together couple. Yeah.

And yet, I didn't find myself absolutely hating the collections Wang produced for Balenciaga. In fact, his past two collections were among my collection highlights, with Fall 2015 really showing him coming into his stride at the fashion house. The clothes haven't been as revolutionary as they were when Nicholas Ghesquiere was at the helm, but they have been perfectly delightful nevertheless, and I actually thought things were going quite well for the Balenciaga brand. Sales have increased and the brand has been getting a lot of press thanks to celebrity fans. Wang's hip status has no doubt helped to youth-enize the brand. So it's not like he was a total failure or a business bomb. Financially, Balenciaga is doing fine.


If we must speculate, I'm going to pin it on personal decisions. Perhaps Balenciaga just wasn't the right fit for Wang, or perhaps he felt he should be focusing his efforts on his own namesake brand. As is the case with all publicized breakups, we may never know the truth, but no matter what the reasons for this particular breakup, it is sad. Hopefully Balenciaga can bounce back and find a partner who can treat her right and give her everything she deserves (I don't know why the Balenciaga brand is female, just go with me on this). As for Wang, this is a tough time but I think with some self-discovery and deep thinking he'll be able to bounce back. This breakup is sad, but we must look forward into the future and hope for the best. And if Alexander Wang can't satisfy Balenciaga, dare we ask who will be stepping up to the plate next?

Alexander Wang will show one final collection for Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week next month. Let's hope it's a good swan song.


What are your thoughts on the Alexander Wang-Balenciaga split? Who should replace Wang?

What's the Deal with J. Crew

June 12, 2015


If you've been following The Fashion Barbie for a while, you are well aware of the fact that I am absolutely obsessed with J. Crew and Jenna Lyons. The preppy-chic brand has been my go-to for relaxed button-down shirts, bold accessories, and elevated tees for years. But lately I've found myself less and less impressed with the Crew's in-store offerings and turning, instead, to the more youthful sister-store Madewell, with which I am also obsessed. It seems I'm not the only one who is feeling uninspired with J. Crew as of late, because the company just announced some major changes this week.

The basics of J. Crew's news? In the face of a poor quarter and declining sales, J. Crew fired 175 employees and is bringing Madewell designer Somsack Sikhounmuong in as J. Crew's new head women's designer.

So why has J. Crew been struggling? Essentially what it comes down to is a decline in the quality of garments coupled with a rise in prices. If you frequent J. Crew I'm sure you've noticed over the past few years that prices have risen, but that hasn't necessarily led to an increase in design quality. Customers have complained about the sweaters in particular, which are staples of J. Crew. Others have taken issue with the boxiness of many of the clothes and the lack of exciting options.


More than anything, though, I think J. Crew is struggling with an identity crisis. 2015 has not been a good year for the mid-point fashion retailer thus far, and J. Crew seems to be having the same problem: how does a brand remain relevant when it's more expensive than truly affordable companies and fast-fashion brands but not expensive enough to be considered a designer/luxury brand? What does J. Crew offer that makes purchasing a sweater there better than buying a similar style at a lesser price point at the Gap or a higher-quality version at Barneys? As of now, consumers are deciding that J. Crew sweaters aren't worth it and taking their business elsewhere.

Frankly, the designs at J. Crew are kind of boring. Sure, J. Crew is where I go to for fashion staples rather than stand-out pieces, but that doesn't mean that everything has to be so simple and uninspired. Otherwise, what's to keep shoppers from going to the Gap or Banana Republic for their classic basics? One of the things that I've always enjoyed about J. Crew is that, in addition to chambray shirts and classic cardigans, they've offered fun prints and bold colors to keep outfits fresh and fun. That unique styling has been absent lately, save for the higher-priced J. Crew Collection line, which is too pricy for most of J. Crew's actual customers.

J. Crew Collection Fall 2015 presentation via Monika Hibbs
J. Crew Collection, which shows at New York Fashion Week and retails at a higher price point, has been a great way for J. Crew to try and grab the contemporary designer customer, and the designs are exciting and bold always. However, the Collection clothes seem to be the only J. Crew items where thought is actually put into the aesthetic quality of the clothes. I find myself fawning over the NYFW presentations every season and then stifling sniffles upon seeing the high prices of the Collection clothes. Why do the good clothes have to be expensive, and the affordable clothes have to be boring? Like the taco girl suggests, why can't we have both good design and affordability? Is it really too much to ask for?

If J. Crew focused on its actual clothes as much as it did the Collection line, I think they could really turn sales around. Today's clothing customer wants creativity and intrigue but they also want quality and affordability. There's a way to offer all of these things, J. Crew just needs to figure out how to fit all the pieces together.

LEFT: J. Crew Creative Director and President Jenna Lyons
RIGHT: New Head Womenswear Designer Somsack Sikhounmuong
Sikhounmuong stepping up as the new head womenswear designer should help. He's made Madewell highly successful and fashionable (frankly, I've been shopping at Madewell more than J. Crew lately, and I love the urban edge with hints of Parisian style and California cool; it just feels a bit more modern and wearable) and I think he could help a lot with making J. Crew feel relevant again. Jenna Lyons transformed the company when she came in in 2008; maybe Sikhounmuong will bring about a second wave of revitalization.

What do you think about J. Crew's recent news? Do you think the brand needs a shake-up?

The Problem with Limited Capsule Collections

April 20, 2015

Image via Lilly Pulitzer for Target Lookbook
By now you've probably heard all about the mess that was the Lilly Pulitzer for Target launch that happened on Sunday, April 19th, or what some people are now referring to as “Pink Sunday”. The eagerly anticipated capsule collection was met by mile-long lines of dedicated devotees and was wiped out of stores within minutes. As I happened to make a trip to the mall this morning anyways, I thought about bopping by Target just to see if there was anything left. When I entered the store (a mere ten minutes after it had opened, mind you) there were only a few items of children’s clothing and some nail polish left.

At Target locations nationwide the result was the same: #LillyForTarget came and went faster than a flash of lightning, and people are mad.

Of course, a quick search on eBay and one will see that the majority of the capsule collection inventory is available for sale online; only, these pieces are marked up two to three times their selling price. At Target a shift dress sold for $38; on eBay they are priced anywhere from $80 to $200. This is a standard practice with these limited capsule collections: scalpers will arrive at the stores early and scoop up everything they can get their hands on and then sell them for a profit online, taking advantage of the fact that once these items have disappeared off the shelves, they are gone for good. Stores sometimes try to fight this by limiting the items that customers can purchase, but these eBay sellers find ways around it.

These guys are smart, but they're also taking advantage of what should be a fun, for-everyone event. The whole point of designer collaborations with cheaper brands like Target or H&M is to make a designer more accessible; customers can be introduced to names like Joseph Altuzarra and Peter Pilotto without having thousands of dollars to spend on items of clothing. A collaboration with a name like Lilly Pulitzer is ideal because a larger population is already familiar with the Lilly style but may not have the financial means to afford the real deal. A Target version may not have the same exact level of quality as a “true” Lilly, but for a teenage girl who loves Lilly but can't afford it on her after school job salary, a Lilly for Target version is perfect. When the supposedly cheaper version is selling for $200, though, you might as well get the real thing.

Though a group of preppy snobs was complaining about the Target collaboration lessening the value of their real Lilly Pulitzer clothes, ironically it has become the cheaper version that has become more covetable and in-demand. In fact, anyone can walk into a Lilly Pulitzer store and buy a Lilly dress whenever they want. It is the person who walks away with the limited Lilly for Target dress that becomes the true owner of exclusivity.

What do you think about designer collaborations like the Lilly for Target collection? Do you think these collaborations are valuable, or do they cause more trouble than they are worth?

What is Fashion Doing Wrong?

February 4, 2015

Images via WWD and Kate Spade Saturday
The other night, my little sister in the sorority posted this article on my Facebook timeline, and when I read it I was upset but not at all shocked. Kate Spade Saturday, the younger, mod sister of Kate Spade New York, just announced that they are closing all stores and reworking their online retail business. This comes only weeks after clothing brands/retailers C. Wonder and Piperlime announced they were shutting down operations, and other companies like Gap and J. Crew are going through major business changes. With a new midpoint clothing retailer shutting down what feels like every other week, the question begs to be asked: what is the fashion business doing wrong?

I'll give you a moment to think about that question, because it's a difficult one to answer. After all, the economy is doing well once again and luxury retailers are finally seeing profits after a few years of a recession. If Prada can make money, why couldn't Juicy Couture?

To be fair, it's easy to figure out where Saturday and C. Wonder could have gone wrong. Saturday only launched a mere two years ago and in that time span opened 32 brick and mortar stores. That's a lot of expenses to burn on a budding brand where you don't know if it will be successful or not. And Saturday wasn't really meant to be a permanent brand; originally it was going to be a Kate Spade x Target collaboration, then a pop-up store, but editorial praise for the brand encouraged Kate Spade to expand the Saturday brand into a full-fledged sister line (perhaps a little too rapidly, though, in retrospect). C. Wonder, on the other hand, was always pegged as a revenge brand and compared to Tory Burch (Tory's ex-husband J. Christopher Burch was C. Wonder's founder, btw).

With both brands, overexpansion seems to be the culprit, paired with mediocre quality and a lack of strong advertising (when I texted my mom last night to tell her the news about Saturday, she responded, "It never got much play. Not well advertised..." Agreed, Mom. Agreed.) Still, given that these stores didn't even exist five years ago, it feels like these brands never really had much of a chance to prove themselves or rework their brand if they were failing.

Piperlime is a different story, however. With only one flagship store in New York, you cannot blame the high cost of maintaining physical stores for the online retailer's demise. One would think that the cost of maintaining an online clothing store would be minimal, but when a company fails to produce a sizeable profit (of all the Gap-owned brands, Piperlime made the least money) it doesn't matter how minimal the costs of maintaining a website is when it's unsuccessful.

image via WWD
Regardless of how and why these different brands shut down, there's a lot of uncertainty moving forward if you are a midpoint clothing brand. Is it the end of the preppy clothing store? The offshoot brand? Where does fashion go from here? The concept of Saturday or C. Wonder—cute, fun clothes for affordable prices—seems smart, especially with the case of Saturday, since many people find Kate Spade New York clothes cute but too expensive for what they are, but these brands are created to make money, not be all that critically successful. When you create a brand as a diffusion line or a way to piss off your ex-wife, your foundations may not be as solid as a brand with years of planning and gradual growth. If your diffusion line isn't successful after a few years, it's easier to just cut your loses and focus on the main brand. The same goes for Piperlime; Gap isn't going to keep holding on to a product that isn't financially successful. Even though Piperlime is it's own entity, it is essentially a diffusion line of Gap.

From Juicy Couture and Abercrombie & Fitch to Kate Spade Saturday and C. Wonder, midpoint fashion retailers need to sell, and if they aren't churning out a sizeable profit, there's no point of maintaining a failing business. Brands that are still in business are reevaluating their business strategies (J. Crew hopes to lower prices and Gap just got rid of their creative director role) in the wake of all these closures.

High fashion and couture can get away with lower numbers because they are luxury goods for a select market; that's the point. Clothes that are created for the masses, however, aren't here to innovate the fashion industry, they exist only to clothes the masses and make money. I guess, the bottom line is the bottom line. If you're made to be sold to everybody and not everyone is buying, what's the point?

If you're still a bit confused about the latest fashion retailer news, this article does a good job of trying to explain the craziness of the retail fashion industry.

What do you think about the recent wave of brand closures? What is the future of the midpoint fashion retailer?

As If!

January 5, 2013

There are a few fictional characters that I truly admire. Holly Golightly of Breakfast at Tiffany's; Mia Thermopolis of The Princess Diaries (both the books and the movies); Any Molly Ringwald character; Gossip Girl's Blair Waldorf.

As different as these women may be they all share some striking similarities: they are all pretty young, sometimes stylish, always naive and slightly self-absorbed women with fantastic lives but realistic flaws. It's easy to love a superhero in a comic book because superheroes are meant to be absolutely perfect; even their flaws essentially make them stronger. But these women don't necessarily aim to correct their flaws. No, they embrace them or even sometimes remain blissfully unaware that they aren't perfect princesses after all.

For the same reasons that I love the previously-mentioned ladies, I am in love with Cher Horowitz, the incredibly shallow if not absolutely loveable heroine of the 1995 Beverly Hills Spoiled Teenager Bible Clueless. Cher has a computer program that makes sure her outfits don't clash, a fancy car that she can't drive, and an overall incredibly charmed life but still the same woes and heartbreaks that we normal people also deal with. Cher gives makeovers and tries to find love for herself while playing matchmaker to others all while wearing unforgettable yellow plaid outfits and mini-mini dresses by Calvin Klein and Alaia (which are the subjects of great memorable lines from the movie, I might say).


Cher might be a bit misguided, but she is such a beloved character because she is such a real teenager- albeit an incredibly stylish one.

Wildfox Couture, the cheeky T-shirt design label that always produces incredible campaigns, has also been incredibly inspired by the life and times of Cher, and their spring 2013 ad campaign recreates the iconic movie in a modern style.

And with great, sassy phrases like "Need Ride to the Mall" and "Rodeo Dr." emblazened on barbie pink oversized tees, Wildfox has got the Valley Girl lingo down.










images courtesy of wildfox couture

The 'New Look' at Dior

April 9, 2012

RAF SIMONS, the new designer at CHRISTIAN DIOR; Alexander Klein/Agence France-Presse -Getty Images

As you probably already know from various sources, the New York Times has announced that Raf Simons (the until-recently head designer at Jil Sander) will take the reigns at Dior. The fashion world has been holding its breath as Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH, the luxury fashion conglomerate that owns Christian Dior, has struggled to find a successor after former head designer John Galliano's much-publicized anti-Semitic remarks led to Galliano's termination last Spring.
Jil Sander Spring 2011 -style.com

Marc Jacobs was for a long time the obvious first choice, but he fell out of the running, along with several others, due to arguments over compensation. A few other names that have been named as possible successors: Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, Christian Lacroix, Haider Ackermann, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, and those are only a handful of the speculated choices.

Simons was among the speculated group as well, though many considered his minimalist streak at Jil Sander to be conflicting with the opulence and extravagance of Dior and thus disregarded him as just another name thrown into the ring. I myself was rooting for Christian Lacroix, who seemed most fit to handle the couture aspect of Dior, and whose creations I have always found absolutely tantalizing, but it seems I have been mistaken.

While the fashion world eagerly waited, we entered into Fall 2012 Fashion Week, and the rumors began swirling once again. With Marc Jacobs out of the running by this point, Dior's mystery designer was anyone's guess. The recent shuffling around of designers from house to house added new names to the already long list of possibilities, and while Raf Simons was still one of the top contenders, he was only one in many names to be considered.

Then the news hit: three days before the Jil Sander Show, it was announced that Raf Simons had been fired and replaced by the brand's founder, who was staging a comeback. The Fall 2012 show, therefore, was bittersweet, as it was possibly Simon's best collection to date. At Jil Sander, Simons has become one of the leaders in minimalist fashions, and so it was somewhat shocking to see blush pinks, feminine cuts, and modest hemlines grace the catwalk. It was decidedly vintage and, looking back on it now, reminiscent of the "New Look" that Christian Dior himself made famous in 1947. Was Simons perhaps giving us a hint of what was yet to come?

Jil Sander Fall 2012 -style.com
With Simons out of a job and the Dior position still wide open, his name of course soared to the top of the list, and his latest collection sollidified the belief for many hopefuls that Raf Simons would be finally named the new head designer of Dior. Now, finally, we can rest peacefully knowing that Bill Gayten will not have to create another awful couture collection for the celebrated French couture house.

It will be quite interesting to see how Raf Simons manages to do couture, as the Fall 2012 Couture show will most likely be his first for Dior. Here's hoping for the best!

What are your thoughts on Raf for Dior?