Showing posts with label new york fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label new york fashion week. Show all posts

Are Fishnets Making a Comeback?

September 11, 2015

& Other Observations from NYFW Day One

Bucket bags at BCBG
Labor Day has come and gone and now we might as well leave the rest of 2015 behind, too. The fashion world is already looking to 2016 thanks to the beginning of New York Fashion Week. Designers started showing off their collections for next spring on Thursday (with a few smaller presentations occurring earlier in the week) and already there are some pressing questions:

Are fishnet tights making a comeback?
Have bucket hats crossed over from ironically tacky to actually fashionable? 
Will we ever tire of the 70s?
How many designers are going to reference Cuba as an inspiration? 
Why are there so many brands with the word "Creatures" in the title? (Okay, there's only two, but it gets way confusing when they show on the same day)

Let's look to the best shows and collections from the first day and see if we can definitively answer these questions by the week's end.

BCBGMAXAZRIA

BCBG went full-on California hippie surfer girl for Spring. Tie dye, palm tree prints, baja ponchos, and lightweight knits in pastel colors dominated the runway in this explosion of cool girl tropes. On the runway these clothes are perfectly eclectic, but it will be interesting to see how they translate to real life. Bucket hats, though? Really? Let's save those for fishing trips and Urban Outfitters catalogues. 

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind is the ultimate in eclectic cool girl style. Mixing pop floral prints, brocades, and fishnets, the CotW girl has a lot going on and isn't afraid to show off her unique take on fashion. The rich palette of reds, olives, and golds gives for a decidedly autumnal feel for a spring show, but I'm vibing it. 

Halston Heritage

If I had a dollar for every time a fashion writer predicted Cuba would be a huge source of inspiration this season, I'd probably be able to buy Cuba. Halston Heritage always harkens back to the 70s heyday of the disco party brand, and for Spring 2016 HH went totally Havana Nights with an incredibly fun collection. Glam party girls and disco divas will flock to the fun maxi dresses and jumpsuits in springy peach tones, and a Bianca Jagger-style suit will have fashionistas begging for Studio 54 to re-open its doors. 

Tomas Maier

Tomas Maier has become one of my favorite designers as of late. He certainly knows how to make fashion fun, but he also makes his exciting pieces extremely wearable. Whether that's by pairing a bandeau with a midi skirt and cardigan or bringing a slip dress into the daytime with sandals and a straw hat, Maier provides inventive new takes on old classics.

What were your favorite shows from Day One of NYFW?

Call of the Sirens

September 12, 2014

Prabal Gurung | Rodarte | Jason Wu | Rodarte | Monique Lhuillier
This ain't your Little Mermaid purple seashell bra get-up, ladies and gentlemen. NYFW went under the sea with oceanic greens and blues. Rodarte was the ringleader of the trend with a tidal pool-inspired collection. I could have a whole separate post on the glory of the Mulleavy sisters' latest creations, but I'll just redirect you to the style.com overview and you can give me your thoughts later.

Prabal Gurung had dresses that reflected the twinkling surface of the ocean shore and will look just as fabulous on the red carpet. Jason Wu did an oceanic take on his usual modern glamour. I could totally see Ariel wearing this look to meet Eric on a date (you know, if Ariel and Eric were real people living in the 21st century). And Monique Lhuillier was full of skirts and dresses that quite closely resembled the iridescent scales of a fish (or a half-woman, half-fish, as the case may be).

The trend lends itself to some awesome editorial material, so hopefully Grace Coddington and the like will jump on that opportunity. And then of course there is the recently announced Sofia Coppola version of The Little Mermaid. Can I get my hopes up and pray that the Mulleavy sisters design the costumes?

Marc By Marc Jacobs SS15: Culture Club

September 10, 2014

Rave themes and punchy pastels dominated the Marc by Marc Jacobs spring 2015 collection
Tapping Luella Bartley to be the head designer of Marc by Marc Jacobs was the best decision anyone has ever made. Okay, that may be a bit of a hyperbole, but when Luella Bartley's namesake line ended I was devastated (Bartley was one of the designers who got me so interested in fashion to begin with) and so I was ecstatic when she joined the M by MJ team.

The fall collection breathed new life into Jacob's diffusion line, but it was restrained and utilitarian–playing it a bit safe for the first collection, I suppose–so I love seeing Bartley let loose a little bit and get back to her perfectly quirky and flamboyant self.

For spring, pastels and polka dots were major players, but the overall theme of the collection was new wave culture. From punk to rave and everything else in between, the subcultures of the late 80s and early 90s were on full display. The set itself was a series of neon triangles against an otherwise dark space, giving the whole space a glow stick kind of vibe. It was awesome to be honest, and the clothes echoed both the angular shapes and the changing primary colors of the set.

 The perfect blend of playful and wearable, the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection is for the girl who isn't afraid to stand out and who is constantly inspired by music culture. It was weird and cool and perfectly off-beat, which is perfect for the collaboration between the great Luella Bartley and the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand.

What did you think of the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection?

Derek Lam Spring 2015: Seventies Forever

September 8, 2014

Cool-toned suedes reigned supreme at Derek Lam
If fashion must remain invested in a singular decade, I guess I would rather it be the seventies than any other ten-year span from the twentieth century. And it seems that for spring this may very well be the case, as designers have continued to display motifs of the turbulent and trendy decade that first appeared in fall shows. Derek Lam is one such designer who continues to explore the seventies for his spring 2015 collection, and while it may feel like a bit of deja vu at New York Fashion Week (this piece perfectly sums up the overwhelming sense of familiarity and sameness–blandness, even–of runway collections this season) it's hard to deny that Lam has presented a new take on the style of the seventies while updating it for the modern woman.

Cool hues of purples and blues dominated the clothes, while intertwined with the earthy neutrals most associated with the decade. There was a deep emphasis on stitchwork, highlighted by patchwork pieces and visible stitches on coats and dresses.

Some looks seemed period-piece like, as if they were pulled from the set of American Hustle, but later looks took a less literal spin on the styles of the seventies, using form and shape to suggest inspiration, rather than simply appearing as modern replicas.

The addition of royal purples and rich blues also added a new layer to the collection. The style of the seventies seems to be so deeply intertwined with the feeling of "Americana" (take a glance at any blue-jean-centric editorial from the past few issues of popular fashion magazines) but these very wealthy colors are usually not part of the typical seventies wardrobe. The unexpected colors make these looks upscale and bring them into the twenty-first century, getting richer and more vibrant as the looks go on and then transforming into the epitome of stylish color combinations, black and white.

Sure, we may be getting bored of the continued fascination with the seventies, but when Lam does it so well and with creative innovation it's hard to get upset.

What did you think of Derek Lam's latest collection? What are your thoughts on NYFW so far?

Put Me In (These Clothes), Coach!

September 6, 2014

Pastel 70s looks from Coach's Spring 2015 Presentation

And we're off (and I'm back to bloggin')! Fashion week is off to a riotous start and I cannot wait to cover all the best shows and coolest trends. First off: Coach.

Coach has always had a special place in my heart. My first designer bag was a Coach monogram baguette that I received in the sixth grade and I thought I was the coolest girl in middle school thanks to that perfectly mid-2000s bag. But more recently Coach has gone through some tough times, and even though I no longer purchase accessories from the designer I do wish all the best for Coach and don't want to see it struggling. The recent decision to rebrand and add ready-to-wear to the Coach brand was a much-needed one, and so far I have been thoroughly impressed with the collections. 

I'll tell you what I told my mom this morning: Coach is about to make a serious comeback. 

Head designer Stuart Vevers picked up where the fall 2014 collection left off: the seventies. Clogs, bell-bottom pants, and shearling coats were major fashion motifs for spring, all done up in sweet pastels to bring a modern twist to the clothes. Cartoon characters were also screened on everything to shirts and dresses to bags, and make note–the clog is making as big a comeback next spring as the Coach line itself! 

There's just enough retro sass to make this collection playful, but the models and styling scream 21st-century cool girl. Style.com declared that the collection was "made for Instagram", but #nofilter needed for these stunning clothes! 

So what do you say, Coach? Will you please put me in (these awesome clothes) already!?

Return of the Fashion Jedis (aka The Redemption of Rodarte)

February 12, 2014


Pardon my French, but Rodarte Fall 2014 was the shit.

To be honest, I wasn't really expecting much from the Mulleavy sisters this time around. After their, ahem, "interesting" Spring 2014 collection that was widely regarded as a bit of a misstep for the usually flawless sister designers, I wasn't exactly waiting on pins and needles for the follow-up.

I must apologize to Rodarte (and I'm sure I'm not the only one) because for a second I had given up hope. As cliche as it might be, Rodarte was one of the shows that got me to really enjoy fashion and see it as something more than just practicality. Their clothes were cool and creative and they were inspired by unique things like Japanese monster movies, and I really appreciated that original approach to designing clothes.

The past few seasons had been shaky, and Rodarte kind of fell from the top of my must-see list. It's sad to admit but true. I kept expecting to fall in love again and again and after a few seasons of just not feeling it, I kind of gave up any expectation.

And maybe that's why I felt such a strong appreciation for Tuesday's show. This wasn't only a strong collection through and through, it was a redemption. 


Well, consider yourself redeemed in the eyes of the fashion world, Kate and Laura.


You should have done Star Wars dresses ages ago.


For a fall collection it was quite full of colors - all the colors of a Tatooine sunset, perhaps. The first looks were rather bohemian in the best, intellectual sense of the word, with girls walking out in colorful berets and shawls draped haphazardly around shoulders.

Then there were the awesome coats. I could imagine how delighted editors and bloggers must have been when they saw the glimmering jackets make their way down the runway, thinking about how that is something they could wear during this horrid polar vortex thing.

Nothing makes me happier than seeing colorful coats. It's so easy to resort to blacks and grays when the weather is less than stellar, and I would absolutely love to wear that sparkly blue coat when the temperature dares to drop below - gasp - 50.

The gowns were divided into two groups - Renaissance and Star Wars. I enjoyed both sections for different reasons, but I must say that the Mulleavy know how to turn something that could come across as kitschy into something that is sassy but also super cool.

The Death Star and Two Moon dresses are the best choices for a starlet who is hoping to geek out but not wear Yoda on her skirt, but even the dress with Luke Skywalker is so perfectly matched to his own ensemble that it doesn't seem that odd to have him there.


My only criticism for this show is that it seemed a bit disjointed, thematically speaking. I don't know if I quite understand how bookish bohemians, Renaissance princesses, and intergalactic Jedis have in common.

I'm not complaining though. I love that this is such a huge improvement for Rodarte, and from what I've heard others are quite pleased with the collection as well!

Props to you, Rodarte. You're back on my list of favorites.

The First Shows of Fall 2014

February 10, 2014

New York Fashion Week is off with a bang, and designers are full of dark, gothy pieces; Lorde and the girls of Coven would be so proud. Here are some of the shows that really wowed me in the first few days of NYFW.

Jason Wu
Jason Wu went for dark glamour
You can always count on Jason Wu for a healthy dose of glamour, but this season he took a dark turn with luxurious black velvets and deep maroons. There was the usual tinge of Old Hollywood stardom, with slinky silk dresses falling to shins and hugging the body. Wu knows how to celebrate the woman and making her feel feminine and powerful. These ladies are women and they know how to get stuff done. I can't wait to see these looks on the red carpet.

Prabal Gurung
A lesson in draping at Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung is a personal favorite, and each season he seems to outdo himself. If spring was a celebration of the past, fall is a fete of the future. Asymmetrical cuts galore, futuristic nomad details, and a cool mix of oranges, blues, and grays made this presentation absolutely stunning and unique. These looks will follow girls from the street to the party scene, which means everyone will want a closet full of Gurung's clothes.

My favorite part? One look (above, far left) had the model matching her hair to her monochromatic blood orange ensemble. Talk about color coordination!

Zimmermann
80s punk meets 50s rockabilly - with a slight South American twist - at Zimmermann
Zimmerman was incredibly unusual and yet I found myself oohing and ahhing at each and every look. I got the impression that the clothes and the models represented a group of girls who were unbelievably cool but also slightly dangerous - like, I would want to sit with them at lunch but I wouldn't want to be caught stealing one of their boyfriends.

Anywho, Zimmermann was a peculiar mix of goth/punk influences and fifties Lolita vibes. Full skirts and off-the-shoulder tops ran rampant, but so did dark lips, heavy boots, and biker jackets. I thought the clothes were absolutely awesome and I would kill to have that ivory lace jumpsuit. Too perfect for words.

Sally LaPointe
Sophisticated style meets downtown cool at Sally LaPointe
Sally LaPointe was practical luxury at its finest. These are clothes fit for a fashion editor, rich and streamlined and minimal-fuss. I enjoyed the atypical approaches to looks, like a sleeveless fur sweater or a crop top with a fabulous embroidered silk maxi skirt. You know the Sally LaPointe girl means business, and you know you want to be dressing just like her.

Nonoo
Experimental textures and textile combinations at Nonoo
At Nonoo, Misha Nonoo played with texture and textile to a brilliant effect. There were fun plays on weaves and pleats (see the grid-paneled coats and skirts, for example) and a radiant range of colors that had me smiling. Maroons and navys are standard autumnal affair, but the pops of yellow and lavender took the collection above and beyond the ordinary winter wear.

Keep checking back for more reviews from all the fashion week shows!

Uptown Girl

February 19, 2012

Oscar de la Renta has long been heralded as the uniform of many an Upper East Side lady who lunches and their Ivy League-bound daughters, but I think there's a part of de la Renta's clothes that appeals to anyone, whether you live in Park Avenue Penthouse, Malibu bungalow, or Wyoming ranch.

For fall Mr. de la Renta went for all-out glamour, using jewel tones and soft pastels as the basis for his collection. Jewels were certainly the theme of the night, for everything from headbands to silky fabrics was adorned with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and more. While keeping with his New York High Society vibe, he also introduced many looks that the younger set will surely jump for.

Of course, what I loved most was the absolute Blair Waldorf-ness to it all. Those silk turban-style headbands and jeweled beauties got me wishing that Blair would go back to the old headband for once.



My absolute favorite dress of the night? This baby blue beauty with a poofy tulle petticoat that would be perfect for prom. If only I had roughly four thousand dollars to blow on a dress.


(images from style.com)

NYFW Recap: Part 2

February 16, 2012

What started off shaky has ended as one of the best fashion weeks in a long while. We aren't even out of winter yet and already I am dying for fall again because I can't wait to see these fabulous clothes in action. There are so many things I noticed, so keep checking back for more fall fashion recaps. I plan to dedicate a full post to Oscar de la Renta because it was possibly the greatest show thus far. But right now here are some other shows that I couldn't get enough of.


Derek Lam
Derek Lam has been long heralded as the king of California minimalism and in a way I have always understood his take on minimalism much more than other designers. For fall he went for a very sleek yet youthful vibe that really showed his attention to detail. 

Tommy Hilfiger
For Hilfiger's "Town & Country" the designer drew inspirations from country clubs and Park Avenue apartments. The entire collection was pretty stellar, but what really got me going was the assortment of fabulous leather coats. The rich colors, the plethora of buttons, and the box shapes all made me smile.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacob's signature line was also a success, which I will most likely talk about later, but his diffusion line deserves some credit too. As a teenager I've always been a fan of the urban youth feel of Marc by Marc, and this collection was full of everything I love about Marc. And really, who doesn't love a girl in a dress and combat boots?

Philosophy
Alberta Ferretti is usually a very romantic designer, so it was nice to see her go back to basics for fall. She showed a true mastery of outerwear in soft neutrals that will be sure to fly off the shelves.

Proenza Schouler
After a disappointing spring show, it was so good to see Proenza Schouler back in winning territory. I loved the shapes and the colors and just the vibe of the whole show. And don't even get me started on that Japanese print. 
 
Thankoon
Thankoon is just so much fun. He really understands what the youth want. We want bright colors and leather jackets and fun dresses and he gave it to us. And really, who else could mix fuchsia, highlighter orange, and maroon so expertly?

(all images from style.com)

Catch Me if You Can

February 13, 2012

Fashion week is always exciting, but there's a lot more going on between shows. I love seeing all the models and editors in their craziest street fashions as they rush from show to show. Tommy Ton is one of my favorite street style bloggers because he has such a way of capturing the exquisite details of an outfit and knows the mood that a girl is trying to bring out with her clothing. Like me, he certainly gravitates towards the wackiest fashions, and he really knows how to capture the fun of fashion.









(all images Tommy Ton for style.com)