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Showing posts with label runway review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label runway review. Show all posts
& Other Observations from NYFW Day One
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| Bucket bags at BCBG |
Are fishnet tights making a comeback?
Have bucket hats crossed over from ironically tacky to actually fashionable?
Will we ever tire of the 70s?
How many designers are going to reference Cuba as an inspiration?
Why are there so many brands with the word "Creatures" in the title? (Okay, there's only two, but it gets way confusing when they show on the same day)
Let's look to the best shows and collections from the first day and see if we can definitively answer these questions by the week's end.
BCBGMAXAZRIA
BCBG went full-on California hippie surfer girl for Spring. Tie dye, palm tree prints, baja ponchos, and lightweight knits in pastel colors dominated the runway in this explosion of cool girl tropes. On the runway these clothes are perfectly eclectic, but it will be interesting to see how they translate to real life. Bucket hats, though? Really? Let's save those for fishing trips and Urban Outfitters catalogues.
Creatures of the Wind
Creatures of the Wind is the ultimate in eclectic cool girl style. Mixing pop floral prints, brocades, and fishnets, the CotW girl has a lot going on and isn't afraid to show off her unique take on fashion. The rich palette of reds, olives, and golds gives for a decidedly autumnal feel for a spring show, but I'm vibing it.
Halston Heritage
If I had a dollar for every time a fashion writer predicted Cuba would be a huge source of inspiration this season, I'd probably be able to buy Cuba. Halston Heritage always harkens back to the 70s heyday of the disco party brand, and for Spring 2016 HH went totally Havana Nights with an incredibly fun collection. Glam party girls and disco divas will flock to the fun maxi dresses and jumpsuits in springy peach tones, and a Bianca Jagger-style suit will have fashionistas begging for Studio 54 to re-open its doors.
Tomas Maier
Tomas Maier has become one of my favorite designers as of late. He certainly knows how to make fashion fun, but he also makes his exciting pieces extremely wearable. Whether that's by pairing a bandeau with a midi skirt and cardigan or bringing a slip dress into the daytime with sandals and a straw hat, Maier provides inventive new takes on old classics.
What were your favorite shows from Day One of NYFW?
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| The opening look from the Marc Jacobs resort 2016 presentation |
With his resort collection serving as somewhat of a commercialized continuation of the Fall 2015 show, however, it seems that Jacobs has returned to high drama.
Everything was black and white and red all over, with silver metallic details here and there. Inspired by the legendary Diana Vreeland, there were plenty of influences of the 40s and 50s as well as the present day. Jacobs' clothes are always a little bit retro without being too kitschy, and even when they are inspired by the fashion stars of the past, it is clear that Jacobs is thinking about today's fashionistas as well. One look—a white embellished sweatshirt over a black knee-length bejeweled dress and finished off with platform Teva-style sandals—came right out of street style blogs, and there's no doubt that street style stars will be rocking this look soon.
The jeweled coats are my personal favorite pieces from the collection and are sure to be a hit with buyers and editors, and I do hope to see some of the gowns on the red carpet, especially this dress.
Here were my favorite looks:
See the entire collection here.
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| Some of my favorite looks from the Resort 2016 collection |
What did you think of the Marc Jacobs resort 2016 collection?
Though resort and pre-fall are technically in-between, less-important seasons than the main two (spring and fall) it feels like more and more attention is being paid to the pre-collections. In return, resort and pre-fall shows have become exciting chances for designers to engage their customers and the fashion world once more rather than a few weeks of quiet presentations and posed lookbook collections.
With the top fashion brands, designers are going to great lengths to make sure their resort collections do not go quietly into that good night, putting on elaborate destination fashion shows that in many ways exceed their main season runway show counterparts in terms of extravagance and excess. And now, under the new creative reigns of Alessandro Michele, Gucci is following in the footsteps of other brands by placing a heightened importance on pre-collections.
Stars of Hollywood and the fashion world gathered in a New York art gallery to watch Michele's second collection for Gucci unfold. I personally was a huge fan of his designing debut back in February, but I think many people were shocked by the huge departure from the Gucci aesthetic that we had all grown to know and love during Frida Giannini's tenure and needed some time to warm up to Michele's own style. If the resort show is any indication, however, the same off-kilter, bohemian, retro vibes that permeated the Fall 2015 show are here to stay at Gucci.
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| Some of my favorite looks from the Gucci Resort 2016 collection via style.com |
The Gucci girl is shaping up to be a unique flower, the kind of girl who works in a used bookstore and one day discovers a magical tome that sends her on a daring adventure across seas and to secret places. She's eclectic and really into vintage stores, but she is also ready to stand out from the crowd.
There's no doubt that editors, buyers, and street style stars alike are going to flock to these clothes. They're interesting and unique enough to catch the eye of a reader or viewer, but they are also cool things to wear. I, for one, am excited to see how Alessandro Michele's version of Gucci impacts the future of fashion. I think we are finally getting over the muted-colored minimalism of late. Michele may bring us forward into a new era of maximalism and extravagance.
See the full collection here.
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| More favorites via style.com |
What did you think of the Gucci Resort 2016 collection?
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| Backstage at the Dior Cruise 2016 show via Vogue |
Destination fashion shows seem to be a trend all there own for the 2016 cruise/resort/pre-spring circuit. Chanel took Seoul, Louis Vuitton jet setted to Palm Springs, and now Christian Dior has staged a destination fashion show of its own at the iconic Palais Bulles (or Bubble Palace, also known as the former home of designer visionary Pierre Cardin) in Cannes. Oddly enough, this collection was originally going to be shown in Los Angeles on the 9th, but perhaps the proximity to Louis Vuitton's Palm Springs party was annoying. It's not a destination fashion show if the guests can simply drive to the locale!
In any manner, Raf Simons & Co. decided that the Bubble Palace was a more fitting venue, and with the Cannes Film Festival about to get underway, the change of venues seemed like a smart plan. Expect to see many of these fresh designs at Cannes photocalls and press parties (most of the looks were a little too casual for the über-glam Cannes red carpet).
The change from Los Angeles to Cannes seemed to make sense when it came to the clothes as well. The opening looks were no doubt Raf Simon's modern, 21st-century take on Brigitte Bardot's iconic gingham dresses (Bardot herself being a fixture of Cannes in the 60s and 70s). Other looks were sculptural and powerful, reflecting the unique architecture of the Palais. Simons has a love affair with beautiful architecture, and Monday's presentation was no exception.
Other staples of Raf Simons design? The use of inventive materials. Several looks were composed of some sort of mesh that reminded me of those little mesh pouches that the supermarkets have on apples and other fruit. Simons is always playing with textiles and pattern. I've never seen anyone make supermarket mesh look so cool.
My favorite inappropriate-for-resort touch? The fur stole accessories, of course. A fur stole may not make for the most practical of poolside accessories, but you know these accessories are going to be a hit with the street style crowd.
But the number one takeaway from this collection: Raf Simons has transformed the Christian Dior brand into a commercial success. Some may say this is a bad thing and lament the loss of the artistic John Galliano, but let's be honest: even high-fashion has to sell, and I would wear every one of these designs. The fact that Simon's collections for Dior are wearable does not make them less creative; there is a way to be artistic and innovative while still presenting a product that makes money. Simons expertly combines the creative with the commercial, which is exactly what I think Dior needed when they were looking for the next head designer.
Another stellar collection by my account.
My Favorite Looks:
Behind-the-Scenes Pictures from Vogue:
What did you think of the Dior Cruise 2016 collection?
While the rest of the fashion world was all about China on Monday night, Karl Lagerfeld & the Chanel peeps were all about Korea. Chanel kicked off the Resort 2016 season with a destination fashion show in Seoul, and per usual, Lagerfeld went all out.
Inspired by both modern Korean youth culture and traditional arts and techniques, the collection was a hodgepodge of kaleidoscopic colors, simple tailoring, and urban edge. Each model looked like a modern-day anime fairytale, like they could have come straight out of a K-pop music video. With Lagerfeld's Chanel there's always a lot of fun to be had, and I really enjoyed how the designer combined modern motifs with traditional Korean fashion and clothe-making techniques.
Here were my favorite runway looks from the collection (there were a lot):
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| Image via style.com |
Drawing from typical Tyrolean attire, models traipsed through the dining rooms and libraries of the baroque estate in lederhosen, feathered hats, and embroidered cloaks. Frocks made from curtains these were not; no, this was Chanel at its finest and most extravagant.
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| Flawless frauleins at the Chanel Métiers d'Art presentation in Austria; images via style.com |
Speaking of fairytales, the association with a fantastical fairytale presence becomes more apparent when one considers Lagerfeld's newly released fashion short-film that features Pharrell Williams and it-girl model Cara Delevingne as "reincarnations" of Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth of Austria, respectively. "Sissi" he calls her as they waltz in the twilight to a song that was written by Pharrell (and we get to hear Cara's lovely singing voice, too!). But it's also "CC" as in, the interlocking C logo and the initials of founder Coco Chanel.
Lagerfeld is an artist and a showman, as collections like this prove time and time again, but he's also a businessman. He'll find any way he can to associate his inspirations directly with the Chanel brand, from "Sissi"/"CC" to the interlocking C hand motions Pharrell makes while dancing, to an appearance by the legend Chanel herself (played by a plucky Géraldine Chaplin). There's no confusion: the Chanel brand is everywhere.
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| images via style.com |
No one does over-the-top quite like Lagerfeld, nor so well; from anyone else, this collection is ridiculous and out of touch with trends that will affect the masses. But mark my words, I pray to the fashion gods that a revival of the Tyrolean feather hat comes about, because it is actually an awesome look, especially when the Chanel girls pull it off so convincingly.
Watch Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne in "Reincarnation":
It would be wrong, as a fashion blog entitled "The Fashion Barbie", to ignore a runway show that paid homage to the pink-loving, over-the-top blonde doll in a ridiculous and literal way that only Moschino can get away with. If last season's consumerist-culture-obsessed collection proved, no one does tacky with such style as Moschino and Jeremy Scott.
For spring 2015, Scott placed an emphasis on the day-glo colors and bold geometric patterns of Barbie's eighties heyday, That meant jazzercise-ready tracksuits, multicolor matching sets, ultra-short skirts, and of course, PINK!
The collection also referenced Moschino's classic forms (coincidentally, also 80s-based) of mini-skirt suits, logomania, and chain-linking. Of particular interest was the play on materials and sizing: buttons and belt buckles were comically enlarged to an Alice in Wonderland-type effect, and plastic reigned supreme amongst the accessories. I suppose life in plastic really is fantastic (Cue the Aqua).
In a fashion week (month?) that has felt a little like Groundhog Day, Moschino is definitely up to the same old tricks, but somehow it feels like some of the freshest fashion around. There's something to be said for a brand that isn't afraid to have some fun and be silly. And come on guys, let's be honest, who doesn't want to dress like a Fashion Barbie?
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| Come on, Barbie, let's go party! |
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| Prabal Gurung | Rodarte | Jason Wu | Rodarte | Monique Lhuillier |
Prabal Gurung had dresses that reflected the twinkling surface of the ocean shore and will look just as fabulous on the red carpet. Jason Wu did an oceanic take on his usual modern glamour. I could totally see Ariel wearing this look to meet Eric on a date (you know, if Ariel and Eric were real people living in the 21st century). And Monique Lhuillier was full of skirts and dresses that quite closely resembled the iridescent scales of a fish (or a half-woman, half-fish, as the case may be).
The trend lends itself to some awesome editorial material, so hopefully Grace Coddington and the like will jump on that opportunity. And then of course there is the recently announced Sofia Coppola version of The Little Mermaid. Can I get my hopes up and pray that the Mulleavy sisters design the costumes?
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| Rave themes and punchy pastels dominated the Marc by Marc Jacobs spring 2015 collection |
The fall collection breathed new life into Jacob's diffusion line, but it was restrained and utilitarian–playing it a bit safe for the first collection, I suppose–so I love seeing Bartley let loose a little bit and get back to her perfectly quirky and flamboyant self.
For spring, pastels and polka dots were major players, but the overall theme of the collection was new wave culture. From punk to rave and everything else in between, the subcultures of the late 80s and early 90s were on full display. The set itself was a series of neon triangles against an otherwise dark space, giving the whole space a glow stick kind of vibe. It was awesome to be honest, and the clothes echoed both the angular shapes and the changing primary colors of the set.
The perfect blend of playful and wearable, the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection is for the girl who isn't afraid to stand out and who is constantly inspired by music culture. It was weird and cool and perfectly off-beat, which is perfect for the collaboration between the great Luella Bartley and the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand.
What did you think of the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection?
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Cool hues of purples and blues dominated the clothes, while intertwined with the earthy neutrals most associated with the decade. There was a deep emphasis on stitchwork, highlighted by patchwork pieces and visible stitches on coats and dresses.
Some looks seemed period-piece like, as if they were pulled from the set of American Hustle, but later looks took a less literal spin on the styles of the seventies, using form and shape to suggest inspiration, rather than simply appearing as modern replicas.
The addition of royal purples and rich blues also added a new layer to the collection. The style of the seventies seems to be so deeply intertwined with the feeling of "Americana" (take a glance at any blue-jean-centric editorial from the past few issues of popular fashion magazines) but these very wealthy colors are usually not part of the typical seventies wardrobe. The unexpected colors make these looks upscale and bring them into the twenty-first century, getting richer and more vibrant as the looks go on and then transforming into the epitome of stylish color combinations, black and white.
Sure, we may be getting bored of the continued fascination with the seventies, but when Lam does it so well and with creative innovation it's hard to get upset.
What did you think of Derek Lam's latest collection? What are your thoughts on NYFW so far?
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| Pastel 70s looks from Coach's Spring 2015 Presentation |
And we're off (and I'm back to bloggin')! Fashion week is off to a riotous start and I cannot wait to cover all the best shows and coolest trends. First off: Coach.
Coach has always had a special place in my heart. My first designer bag was a Coach monogram baguette that I received in the sixth grade and I thought I was the coolest girl in middle school thanks to that perfectly mid-2000s bag. But more recently Coach has gone through some tough times, and even though I no longer purchase accessories from the designer I do wish all the best for Coach and don't want to see it struggling. The recent decision to rebrand and add ready-to-wear to the Coach brand was a much-needed one, and so far I have been thoroughly impressed with the collections.
I'll tell you what I told my mom this morning: Coach is about to make a serious comeback.
Head designer Stuart Vevers picked up where the fall 2014 collection left off: the seventies. Clogs, bell-bottom pants, and shearling coats were major fashion motifs for spring, all done up in sweet pastels to bring a modern twist to the clothes. Cartoon characters were also screened on everything to shirts and dresses to bags, and make note–the clog is making as big a comeback next spring as the Coach line itself!
There's just enough retro sass to make this collection playful, but the models and styling scream 21st-century cool girl. Style.com declared that the collection was "made for Instagram", but #nofilter needed for these stunning clothes!
So what do you say, Coach? Will you please put me in (these awesome clothes) already!?
The best fashion collections always seem to stem from the simple idea of representing the life of a girl through clothing. I love being able to picture a woman living her life in a fantastic and eccentric wardrobe, as was the case with the Giambattista Valli fall 2014 couture collection.
Models walked the runway with thick white scarves wrapped in whimsical bows around their heads and round sunglasses shielding their eyes. They had a mid-century air to them, as if they were fashionable housewives who had escaped to the Spanish Mediterranean coast for some much-needed rest and relaxation.
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| Giambattista Valli on his fall 2014 couture collection (via style.com/image source) |
Valli dressed his eccentric women in stripes, florals, and every other print in between. These girls don't care if their outfits are bold and loud; to be honest, they prefer it that way. They aren't attention-seekers, they just happen to find the spotlight focused on them. They love to garden and may or may not train parrots to speak passages of Hemingway. They are unique without apology (as it should be) and we love it.
I love that Valli allows his designs to be unabashedly feminine and strong. A full-skirted floral dress is as statement-making as it is girly, and the same woman who has an affinity for old-fashion florals can also rock the room in a killer lavender fur coat with exaggerated shoulders. The Valli girl really doesn't care about normcore or if she's trendy or even if she attracts men with her outfits (I hope Leandra Medine enjoyed this collection as much as I did!) She dresses for herself, celebrates herself with her fashion choices, and if you don't like it you can GTFO.
The quartet of colorful feathered gowns that finished the show were absolute showstoppers. In an increasingly minimalist fashion climate, it's nice to see that a colorful princess skirt can still capture the hearts of so many. These dresses were possibly the looks of couture week. I mean really, who can resist the allure of vibrant ruffle skirts, let alone four of them side-by-side? Even if you don't fall for a full skirt so easily, you can still marvel in the sheer manpower required to create such magnificent ballgowns.
I don't know who I trust to rock these gowns on the red carpet, but boy I hope someone has the guts to do so. These gowns deserve to be seen and admired by all.
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