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| Coach | Derek Lam | Juan Carlos Obando | Tommy Hilfiger | ZAC Zac Posen |
The 70s have been on a run these past few years, thanks in part to some of the movies that have come out recently. Argo, the Ben Affleck directed flick about the Iranian Hostage Crisis of 1979, won the Oscar for Best Picture, and David O'Russell's American Hustle is nominated for the Academy's highest honor - we'll see if it wins this weekend. I was not entirely impressed with either film (too much hype can be a bad thing, I've learned) but I was enthralled by the costumes and the style of the decade.
The 70s were indeed a tumultuous decade full of scandal and strife (Argo) but also extravagance and glamour (American Hustle). Revolution was everywhere, whether it was a country fighting for independence or women fighting for equal rights. The 70s were loud and full of liberation, and the clothes were as wild and ever-changing as the times.
And it's no shock that with a recent cinematic fascination with the decade a resurgence in fashion trends from the 70s has come about. Halter tops, shearling coats and jackets, silk neck ties, patchwork denim, aviators...there's no end to the inspiration.
Coach's first-ever ready-to-wear collection felt like an experiment in 70s-revival, with an earthy color palette and enough tan suede and fringe to costume the cast of That 70s Show. Miuccia Prada blended the 1930s Weimar Republic and the 1970s for her fall collection at Prada. The geometric prints and fire engine red furs were bold enough for Amy Adam's character in American Hustle to fawn over, surely.
Marni
At Marni the models were birds of a feather - or fur? Either way there were many references to the natural world and the coats of all sorts of creatures. Furs are standard fall collection fare, but Consuelo Castiglioni applied it in strange asymmetrical patches and in unnatural prints and colors.
The color scheme was rather utilitarian, but it's not a Marni show without some unexpected pops of color strewn throughout. There would be a parade of army green outfits punctuated by a hot pink monochrome look just to make sure you are always on your toes.
The final looks of the show were absolutely stunning in terms of innovation and construction. They appear to be natural and idyllic while at the same time futuristic and modern - the juxtaposition of the natural and the constructed world seemed to be a recurring theme throughout the collection.
Altogether this was one of the most inspiring and inventive Marni shows that I have seen. There is the usual attention to construction and shape combined with the offbeat quirkiness, but it is much more sophisticated and creative than ever before.
I can't imagine celebrities having any luck on the red carpet with these funky outfits, but I don't think that's the point of Castiglioni's latest collection. These are beautiful and challenging clothes, and I love it.
Fendi
Another designer to use copious amounts of fur was Karl Lagerfeld for his latest collection for Fendi. Of course, Fendi was founded as a fur house, so this makes sense. Compared to the punchy primary colors of the spring collection, Fendi Fall 2014 may seem a bit drab. I'm not usually one for such earthy tones, but I really enjoy how Lagerfeld has utilized them here.
There's a kind of retro-futuristic vibe going on here, like how people from the 50s thought the future would look. In what seems to be one of fall's prevailing themes, I can almost imagine Princess Leia wearing one of these looks while touring the galaxy far far away. But then there are go go boots and ladylike dresses and the most amazing fur baseball jacket ever which are not so much Star Wars and really more of a cool, retro-modern look.
In the end these clothes are sleek and lovely. Fashion editors are going to eat these looks up, and bloggers will not be able to get enough of that fur baseball jacket. Seriously, that is magical.
Prada is not a show that you immediately comprehend. Miuccia is an expert of creating thoughtful and at times confusing clothing that takes time to fully muster up a feeling about. Generally I get super excited for the Prada show and then turn away after the live stream has finished feeling a bit disappointed. It's never what I expect and I can never quite understand it the first time around. And if I'm being completely honest, the clothes are sometimes not the most generically beautiful, which is of course what makes them so difficult to digest on first viewing.
For the Fall 2014 show we had a bit of a hint as to what it was going to look like a few weeks ago during Men's Fashion Week, where several female models came out in looks of a very similar color palette to the collection today. Tim Blanks described Thursday's show as "Act II" in his style.com review, with this being the second installment to be inspired by the German avant-garde movement in in particular Rainer Werner Fassbinder's 1972 film The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant.
There was a mix of time periods here - on the one hand I could totally see Amy Adam's character from American Hustle fawning over the shearling coats in vibrant colors and the disco print silk dresses; on the other, there were the drop waists and fringe details of the Weimar era, where German avant-gardism flourished.
While not the cotton candy colored collection that was Spring 2014, fall feels very bold and glamorous in an entirely different way. And actually, I think this is one of the most "understandable" collections that Miuccia has produced in a while. That doesn't make it any less intellectual, but it is stunning and I can see that more easily with this collection. Which probably means I'll only love it even more over time.
*But actually, Prince Harry ain't married yet so there's still hope
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| David Koma | Clover Canyon | Simone Rocha |Mary Katrantzou | Erdem |
London Fashion Week came and went - I know, right! - and it left me feeling like quite the anglophile. Plaids and tartans have proven to be a lasting force ever since they first stepped back into the limelight this past fall as a grunge staple, but this season the check print has a decidedly traditional air to it.
At Clover Canyon and Mary Katrantzou, family shields and crests came back in a big way, and by two designers whose digitalized prints will bring traditional motifs into the twenty-first century. I have a feeling the Mary Katrantzou pieces are going to be especially popular among the street style set - it's totally a way to relive that English prep school fantasy in a more sophisticated fashion.
Simone Rocha created an entire collection that was inspired by the ever-popular Anne Boleyn, the second wife of the notorious Henry VIII and mother to Elizabeth I.
David Koma was less literally inspired by the styles of medieval England but there was a historical edge to the off-the-shoulder shapes of dresses; in fact, they were quite reminiscent of Aurora's dress from Sleeping Beauty, a hybrid of medieval and 50s dress shapes. Erdem showed similar styles but in rich brocades, and even included a fur coat that resembled a luxurious ermine coat fit for a queen.
All in all, there's a large sense of national and historical pride amongst the London collections, and I may be as American as they come but I'm all for a little bit of anglomania!
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