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Showing posts with label elie saab. Show all posts
Showing posts with label elie saab. Show all posts
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| Christian Dior Fall 2015 Haute Couture via style.com |
Let's discuss the Fall 2015 shows, then, shall we?
Armani Privé
With blindingly vibrant shades of neon pink, electric blue, and radiant green, "Shocking" truly is a great title for the Armani Privé Fall 2015 couture collection. Armani's collection was deeply inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli and her signature hue, "shocking pink" (hence the title and the abundance of pink on the runway). This collection was full-on 80s luxe, with strong shoulders, androgynous forms—from the abundance of suits right down to the shaggy pixie cuts of the models—and a powerful, eye-catching color palette that can only be described as a cool sunset.
This being a couture collection, there was no expense spared, no detail deemed too extravagant. That meant lots of feathers, sequins, crystals, and velvets. Luxe, indeed.
As is usual with Armani Privé, we will be seeing plenty of these designs on red carpets in the coming months, and I cannot wait. Whoever is bold enough to wear these stunning designs (I especially cannot wait to see the final dress in action) is sure to make a splash.
Chanel
As usual, the set at the Grand Palais was incredibly creative and cheeky; for Fall 2015 couture, head designer Karl Lagerfeld had models walk through a Monte Carlo-style casino where Chanel muses like Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, and Lily Rose Depp sat at poker tables, gambling away while identical, robotic models passed by. Robotic being the key word here, because many of the early looks in the show were 3D-printed and created with computer technology. With handmade detail being so integral to the institute of couture, I'm not quite sure if 3D-printing technology has a place in high fashion, but you've got to give it to Lagerfeld for always being innovative and ready to try the newest thing.
Stylistically, the daytime looks at the Chanel show just did not do it for me. Their odd stiffness is better explained when you consider the use of 3D-printing, but to be honest I often feel this way with Chanel shows as of late; the first half of the collection is repetitive at best, always the same tweed skirt sets and 1920s shapes that have been Chanel staples since the era of Mademoiselle Coco herself. The creative process might have been an innovative gamble (if we are to go with the casino theme) but the tweed suit is hardly a risk.
But the second half. That's where the magic is with this collection. From frilly cocktail dresses to decadent gowns, these are the clothes that are going to sell with the couture crowd.
Also, can we just talk about the la mariée suit worn by it-model Kendall Jenner? That is how you take elements of Chanel tradition and have some fun and innovation with it. Here's hoping some celebrity or high-fashion favorite is getting married soon and wanting to wear this, because this wedding suit needs a moment.
Christian Dior
Raf Simons is one of the—if not the—best designers in the business. He outdoes himself with each collection he delivers for Christian Dior, and to think I have gone from being skeptical of his appointment to absolutely ecstatic each time he does something new is crazy. After delivering a knockout resort collection in Cannes, Simons has done it again with the Fall 2015 couture collection. He has an obviously minimalist approach to haute couture, which at first I was nervous about (how can one be both minimalist and opulent and luxe enough for couture?) but I have come to appreciate how Simons has time and time again managed to make wearable, commercial, but no-less extravagant clothes for his couture collections at Dior. I think it's easy to confuse high fashion with high concept, and it's nice to see that there's a way to present straightforward, beautiful clothes that are going to impress.
Part 60s hippie, part modern medieval princess, and with a touch of New Look tradition thrown in, this collection had a lot going on, and yet it all felt incredibly cohesive. As usual, Simons has taken up Christian Dior's interest in flowers and has used fauna as the starting point for many of his collections, but here it takes a less literal approach than it has in the past. There are floral motifs here and there, and the set definitely had references to flowers, greenhouses, and naturalist painting, but it's not the petal-like creations that Simons started out with.
If people were still comparing Simons' vision of Dior to Galliano's, they shouldn't be doing that anymore. This is the Christian Dior of Raf Simons, and it is incredibly successful. In fact, it's kind of crazy to think back on the days of over-excess to the point of tackiness. Now, Dior couture is just as luxurious, but you could actually see well-dressed women wear these pieces out and about. And even with couture, the pinnacle of high fashion, you should still want women to wear your clothes in real life. Simons has made that a reality.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab shows may not be cutting edge or innovative in the same way that other couture shows tend to be, but Saab has made a career out of the pretty, sparkling gowns that grace the runway season after season. One comes to expect plenty of lace, embroidery, and embellishment, and yet, each season one marvels at the fun twists in Saab's designs and the stunning color palettes. We may know what to expect out of an Elie Saab show, but we love it each and every time.
For fall, Saab went a vaguely Gothic route, with a moody color palette of glittering emeralds and rich burgundies, medieval dress styles, and golden crowns atop the head of every model. He also added fur trims to the sleeves of dresses for added autumnal flare. This collection will appeal to the large list of royals who flock to Saab's creations as well as Hollywood princesses. The burgundy caped-jumpsuit, for example, better make an appearance on the red carpet (perhaps the Golden Globes?) or I will be incredibly disappointed. Another beautiful turn from the man who loves to create beautiful dresses.
(all images via style.com)
What was your favorite collection? And be sure to check back for Part II tomorrow!
Talk about a major Cinderella moment! Lily James, one of the stars of your mom's favorite show Downton Abbey, has been dazzling everyone during her promotional tour for Disney's Cinderella. As the titular lead who happens to be one of the most iconic Disney princesses, James had a lot of expectations to live up to both on and off screen, but I must say that she has succeeded! I haven't seen the movie yet, but I've heard it's delightful and I cannot wait to see the gorgeous costumes.
On the red carpet, James has been exuding the Disney princess vibe with every look, donning regal Elie Saab Couture gowns and Christian Dior ensembles. She's an expert at dressing to the occasion, looking like a true princess for large premieres while looking modern and trendy at talk show appearances and fashion week front rows.
And, in a moment when eyebrows are of the utmost beauty importance, Lily James has a gorgeous pair of strong and defined brows to rival miss Cara Delevingne (not an easy feat).
All in all, Lily James is a true rising star, and I hope she has ample opportunities in the future to show off her red carpet game.
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| Wearing Camilla and Marc | Christian Dior | Marchesa Notte | Prada | Black Dress | Elie Saab Couture |
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| Elie Saab | Chanel | Pamella Roland | Maticevski | Elie Saab |
A fan of Elie Saab and Chanel, Collins oscillates between breathtaking ballgowns and modern minimalist chic. She stunned in a purple watercolor Elie Saab gown at the Rome Film Festival—perhaps one of the best celebrity looks of the whole year! But she looks just as fabulous rocking a structured crop top or a new-look style gown in a vibrant orange.
Collins has also had one heck of a beauty year. Her of-the-moment bob is both mature and youthful, and adds a modern glamour to all of her looks, whether she is dazzling on the red carpet or just going grocery shopping. She's also a fan of a bold lipstick, so what's not to like?
What's up next for Lily Collins in 2015? She's been promoting her most recent film Love, Rosie internationally, but other than that she has a role in the upcoming, yet-to-be-named Warren Beatty film, set to be released next year.
Who do you think will round out the rest of the list?
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| Zuhair Murad | Vionnet | Elie Saab | Versace | Alexis Mabille |
If Chanel and Christian Dior were inspired by the modern now, then other couture houses like Elie Saab and Alexis Mabille were inspired by the glorious past.
There was a decidedly Grecian influence to many of the couture collections, with an emphasis on elegant asymmetrical drapery and the manipulated form.
The models rocked these dresses like the classical statuettes that immortalized the traditional Greco-Roman dress, and the end result is incredibly elegant. The Elie Saab and Versace dresses in particular are sure to be all over red carpets in the coming weeks, and I cannot wait to see them in action!
There's a reason these looks are so classic!
All the best from the fall 2012 couture shows
Couture is always exciting. Couture challenges designers to push the artistic boundaries of fashion to the edge. Everything is fantastical, dreamlike, surreal. Couture focuses on ancient techniques and futuristic technologies alike. Couture is magical.
You've already heard my thoughts on the Christian Dior show, but here are my opinions on the rest of Fall 2012 Couture.
Alexis Mabille
Alexis Mabille is always good for a fantasy-inspired show, full of glimmering gowns and dramatic capes and cuts. The designer used jewels as his inspiration, allowing him to take full advantage of emerald greens, ruby reds, and sapphire blues. Maybe I've just been looking at this Game of Thrones "What Would They Wear?" Blog too much, but I wonder if Mr. Mabille has the HBO masterpiece on his TiVo. Daenerys Targaryen would totally work that shimmering blue dress; Cersei would be sassy as usual in that ruffled cream cape confection; Sansa would look princess-like and innocent in the midnight-blue dress with the bow on the shoulder.
Chanel
For Karl Lagerfeld, fashion can be quite the conundrum. Fashion is all about giving people something new, something fresh, but it is all rooted in the past. For the Chanel Fall 2012 Couture Presentation, the theme was "New Vintage" or a blending of future and past. In true Lagerfeld fashion, the clothes were only part of the presentation: the invite was a pink and grey sketch of Mademoiselle Coco done by Lagerfeld; the space was designed to look like Chanel's original salon de couture (source); the guests sat at white wicker chairs and tables with macarons and other vintage delights. But the clothes were the true stunners. Pink was the color of the night, and girls walked out in sequined skirts and glittering grey tights (and the sure-to-be most-wanted-accesory, sequined knit hats slung back on the models' heads. "New Vintage" indeed. 1930's silhouettes abounded, and yet, as usual, Lagerfeld made everything appear to be almost futuristic! My personal favorite? The dust pink sequin dress with fuzzy pom-poms protruding; I hope the right person wears that dress and kills it!
Elie Saab
Titled In Constantinople's Wake, the Elie Saab show was the usual tour de force that I always look forward to. Sure, perhaps Saab's love of sequins and sparkle can grow to be predictable, but he knows how to create something beautiful each and every time. I enjoy the designer's use of color stories as he transitions from one hue to the next and thus allows the show to evolve with each passing frock: first black gowns in lace, then contrasting ivory and peaches, then soft blues, and finally to golden-tinted neutrals. There are so many red-carpet looks here, as usual, and I cannot wait to see these gowns in action, but perhaps my favorite is the blue with gold brocade, vaguely miltary-esque dress (second from left). There is something so strong about it, and yet the glimmering details soften it, making in a dress of perfect balance.
Ulyana Sergeenko
Ulyana Sergeenko is Russian. If you didn't know that already, you would have figured it out by the time you looked at her debut couture show. Long winter military coats, fur hats and gloves, babushkas: Miss Sergeenko is very interested in her homeland. The street-style star turned designer has proven herself, for her way of dressing certainly carries over to her way of designing. She shows strong silhouettes and makes her style be known, but there is a whimsicality of the collection that makes it lighthearted and, to be honest, fun! Details are exaggerated and proportions are played with (she pairs a fur cap and gloves with a military-inspired bodysuit). Many fear that the theatricality of couture has been lost, now that Galliano is out of the game (for now, at least) but perhaps Sergeenko is the new torch-bearer of fun fashion.
Valentino
Finally, a Valentino collection that doesn't look like the costumes for the movie adaptation of a Jane Austen book! While we are talking about past Valentino collections, I don't think people were this up in arms about the new designers after Mr. Valentino himself left, and today's Valentino collection is far removed from the foundations, unlike Raf's Dior Debut. But I digress... This show was darker than past collections, but there was something very regal about the cut-out velvet gowns and brocade coats in lemons and sorbets. (Oddly enough, Tim Blanks referenced Game of Thrones in his review of the show for style.com; perhaps the show is on every top designer's TiVo these days!) This was perhaps the most ornate Valentino collection created by duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli to date, and yet nothing is overdone. Everything is still very aesthetically pleasing and poised, which I'm sure is the point.
Giambattista Valli
If Christian Dior's main inspiration was flowers, then butterflies are that for Giambattista Valli. Valli has been a favorite of mine and I think his is absolutely perfect for couture, and although his couture label is young, it is one of the strongest around. Butterflies were everywhere -hair, belts, even lips- and nature reigned today. Valli is not afraid to be bold, as evidenced by the strong pallet and structure of the clothes presented. The standouts? That forest fairy queen cape and gown (can't you just see Titania of A Midsummer Night's Dream wearing that?) and the sculpted asymmetrical peplums that bring new life to the season's biggest hit. Like his inspirational insect, Giambattista Valli is soaring.
What were your thoughts on all the couture shows?
(images from style.com)
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