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*But actually, Prince Harry ain't married yet so there's still hope
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| David Koma | Clover Canyon | Simone Rocha |Mary Katrantzou | Erdem |
London Fashion Week came and went - I know, right! - and it left me feeling like quite the anglophile. Plaids and tartans have proven to be a lasting force ever since they first stepped back into the limelight this past fall as a grunge staple, but this season the check print has a decidedly traditional air to it.
At Clover Canyon and Mary Katrantzou, family shields and crests came back in a big way, and by two designers whose digitalized prints will bring traditional motifs into the twenty-first century. I have a feeling the Mary Katrantzou pieces are going to be especially popular among the street style set - it's totally a way to relive that English prep school fantasy in a more sophisticated fashion.
Simone Rocha created an entire collection that was inspired by the ever-popular Anne Boleyn, the second wife of the notorious Henry VIII and mother to Elizabeth I.
David Koma was less literally inspired by the styles of medieval England but there was a historical edge to the off-the-shoulder shapes of dresses; in fact, they were quite reminiscent of Aurora's dress from Sleeping Beauty, a hybrid of medieval and 50s dress shapes. Erdem showed similar styles but in rich brocades, and even included a fur coat that resembled a luxurious ermine coat fit for a queen.
All in all, there's a large sense of national and historical pride amongst the London collections, and I may be as American as they come but I'm all for a little bit of anglomania!
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| Michelle Harper attending shows in New York (photo by Chantal Adair for Elle.com) | Kendall Jenner making her runway debut at Marc Jacobs |
When I was twelve I was a little off-put when I saw skinny models in sheer tops traipsing down the runway like it was no big deal. I had just delved into the world of high fashion and the concept of of fashion being as much about nudity as it was clothing took some time for me to adjust to.
Nowadays it's really no big deal for me. Sheer tops are a thing and they don't always come with corresponding lingerie when shown on the runway. Fashion editorials feature topless models as much as Playboy does. Toplessness is not unusual to me anymore and as I look back on the middle school me who blushed just looking at Chanel runway shows and the occasional see-through top I wonder why exactly I was so alarmed by it all in the first place. After all, it's only a woman's body, it's not something unfamiliar or dangerous.
So what exactly is wrong with the occasional sheer top, anyways?
I found myself looking back on my first encounters with toplessness in fashion and asking the above question this weekend when the social media universe was all atwitter (on Twitter) over Kendall Jenner's runway debut at the Marc Jacobs show this past Thursday.
The eighteen-year-old member of the Kardashian clan was almost unrecognizable beneath a cropped wig and pale makeup that included bleached brows. Her involvement in the show was kept quite hush-hush until she stepped out into the spotlight, and even then I didn't recognize her as I livestreamed the show. It was only when I saw my twitter feed erupt with excitement over her first stint as a runway model that I did a double take and conclude that Kendall had indeed walked down the runway in equestrian-inspired trousers and an incredibly lightweight knit top.
The first thing I thought was: meh, I wish they had put her in a better outfit.
The second thing: oh, her boobs are out. People are going to freak out about that probably.
Big shocker: I was right about the ideas people were going to have regarding her somewhat scandalous outfit. People started freaking the eff out over Kendall's outfit. If you search "Kendall Jenner" and "Marc Jacobs" the majority of results focus on the fact that the young starlet exposed her breasts on the catwalk - and not, you know, that she just walked for one of the biggest names in fashion and did well. Kendall is getting called a bad role model and an attention whore (usually along the lines of "she's just like her other attention whore sisters").
Nice, people. Very nice.
While personally I would not opt to wear that outfit to my next lecture, there's a reason why Kendall is the model and I am not. If she feels comfortable wearing the outfit then go for it, girl! And it's not like only the celebrity wore a revealing outfit - she was but one in a long line of models that sported slightly-transparent tops for Marc Jacob's fall 2014 show.
In addition, one must consider the context. Many people tweeted about how disgusted they were with Kendall's choice in outfit, as if she went to Barney's and purchased it or had requested a see-through top. This was the outfit Kendall was given, and as a model it is her job to wear the clothes.
Consider the street style choice of Michelle Harper during NYFW: she wore a nude mesh top that similarly left her breasts exposed - and she was wearing it on the streets out in public. When I first saw her outfit I'll admit I was a little shocked, but it was more of a "Oh, that's something we don't see everyday" than an "AHH! Boobs!" Most commentators felt similarly about Harper - shocked not by the "obsceneness" of her outfit but rather by the rarity of such a look, and in the dead of winter no less. I think the main thing that came to mind for me was, Ohmigod, she must be freezing. That is true dedication to your look over fear of the elements.
So why are two cases of semi-toplessness interpreted so differently? I suppose the two most important factors are Kendall's age and celebrity. Granted, she is young, but she is average in age for a model and she is a legal adult who is capable of making her own decisions. On the second factor - her celebrity - I think the context of the outfit is important. It is her job to wear the outfit, rather than a choice to go out in public wearing it.
But in all honesty, would it be so weird if she did that either? I see plenty of women walk about sans bra and personally I like wearing bras (they're pretty!) but I can understand that bras can be uncomfortable and that some women don't like wearing them. And people don't really freak out when women choose to go without a bra, so I don't really understand why the level of sheer-ness affects how appropriate not wearing a bra can be. And it's like, people, it's no mystery that women have breasts whether you can see them through a shirt or not. They are there and we should stop fixating on them and on Kendall's outfit and instead celebrate the huge accomplishment that walking for Marc Jacobs is. Don't let anything - especially something as stupid as boobs - distract from that huge achievement.
Marc Jacobs has been a busy man with a lot of talk surrounding him recently. He left Louis Vuitton after a stunning final collection last year to focus on his eponymous label and their upcoming IPO. Luella Bartley took up the designing reigns for his offshoot line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, and it seems the reviews have been pretty good.
And now on the final evening of New York Fashion Week, all eyes have turned to Jacobs and his first collection in a new era of his life.
Following his dark, gothic spring show, it is rather jarring to see Jacobs present a collection full of pastels and airy fabrics for fall. Lavender masses of cotton candy (or were they clouds?) were suspended over the viewers and models strutted out to similarly-colored maxi dresses and wide-leg pants. Each model had their stick-straight bobs pulled out of their face with a wide knit headband, giving them an active, ballerina-in-practice look.
Jacobs always likes to leave us guessing, and one would never suspect this collection from the often punk-inspired designer, but my is the result breathtaking. Make no mistake, these clothes are quite challenging to wear and I'm sure we are going to see a few celebrity missteps when they try to translate these looks to the red carpet, but the right girl in the right dress and you will have a knockout outfit.
Personally I loved the change of pace that this collection brought. The seventies continue to be the big trend and Marc Jacobs has interpreted the decade in a fresh new way, and pastels for fall is perfectly genius! Those ombre fur coats are going to be absolutely everywhere.
Fall 2014 for Jacobs was a breath of fresh air, a beginning of a new chapter, as light and promising as a dainty pink cloud at sunrise. And I can't wait to see where this new day leads Marc Jacobs.
New York Fashion Week continues with favorites old and new.
Here's the low-down on some of my favorites:
J. Crew
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| J. Crew aka What Would Jenna Lyons Wear? |
Personal favorite J. Crew is at it again with the preppy-cool shenanigans. The preppy sportswear brand's collection line has basically turned into a presentation of all the outfits Creative Director Jenna Lyons wants to wear come next fashion week. And Jenna Lyons has basically become the Woman We All Want To Be Like.
Because Jenna Lyons is pretty darn cool, if you ask me. She's got great, no-fuss style; not to mention she made her acting debut on Girls this Sunday, which is like the epitome of cool. With her J. Crew isn't just the wardrobe for Ivy League WASPs and polo players - it has become more (ugh, I hate this word) hip. People want to wear J. Crew. Which frankly I so love.
Anyways, their fall collection is full of clothes fit for every type of woman, from the dressed-up feminine lady to the downtown-cool tomboy. There's enough prep in here to stay classically J. Crew, but there's a youthfulness to the clothes that Lyons introduces that has really revitalized the J. Crew brand. I used to only get basics from J. Crew (plain T-shirts and solid skirts, that sort of thing) but now I enter their store looking for statement pieces. That's a big shift in brand identity if you ask me.
Proenza Schouler
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| Proenza Schouler gets wild! |
The boys at Proenza Schouler are not afraid of a little experimentation, and each collection with them seems to be an intriguing exploration of cuts, textiles, and styles. For fall it appears there has never been a more appropriate time to use the term "Urban Jungle" when describing a collection, as these clothes were made for tackling the bustling streets of New York in style.
Jack and Lazaro are experts of balancing proportions and in mixing unexpected patterns together to achieve a spontaneous but put-together look, if that makes sense.
The use of zebra stripes and other loud patterns in a cool, sophisticated way is probably what the Rodarte girls were striving for for their Spring 2014 collection, but here it works because these sometimes tacky prints have been applied to incredibly modern silhouettes and not to equally as tacky shapes.
And if for some reason you are absolutely loving the whole Birkenstocks and ugly sandals trend (preferably with socks) the designers at Proenza have got you covered - well, at least your feet - with loafers that very closely resemble those water booties they make you wear when you go rafting.
Michael Kors
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| Neutrals never looked so good at Michael Kors |
If the boys behind Proenza Schouler are mad scientists of clothing experimentation, then Michael Kors is a distinguished professor of history. You cannot get more classic American clothing than Kors, and you're never going to see him try something that is wayyy out there. And that's okay. Kors has perfected classic American sportswear and it is so darn good, why would he want to change any of that?
For fall Kors stuck mostly with neutrals and soft metallics, but it was always cool and never boring. Kors makes clothes that are sexy without being slutty, historically inspired without being outdated, masculine without losing that feminine edge that makes them so desirable. He may walk a fine line but he never falters, and that is why he consistently makes people fall in love with his clothes.
There's a rich luxuriousness to his clothes but at the same time I wouldn't feel like I had to limit myself from running around in them or going out into nature because I was worried I would spill something on my slip dress or tear my oversized knit sweater. Kors makes clothes that are meant to be worn and lived in which I truly find refreshing. Clothing can be as beautiful as a Renaissance painting but they aren't really valuable if you feel afraid to wear them.
With Michael Kors, these clothes are calling to me, asking me to wear them. And it's taking everything I have to resist them.
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