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Showing posts with label chanel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chanel. Show all posts
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| The atelier on full view at Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2016 via Vogue Runway |
A salute to the true heros of couture.
If the whispers are true that Karl Lagerfeld is on the final stretch of his illustrious tenure as Chanel's creative director, then it would make sense for him to be feeling sentimental. He's always been one to honor the legacy of Chanel while imbuing his own touch to his collections, combining past and present (and sometimes even future!) for a truly remarkable end result. Two months ago it was Cuba's history and exciting future prospects that captured Lagerfeld's imagination; for spring couture it was Japanese gardens. But this season Lagerfeld was looking inward, to the legacy of the house of Chanel itself and the women who make it all possible.
Haute couture is first and foremost a celebration of exquisite craftsmanship. In a world of 3D printing and machinery, couture is more important than ever, reminding us that no matter how much technology advances and ameliorates the production of clothing, it will never be able to compete with the precision and care of the hand. And that was the overarching theme of the Chanel show: les petits mains—literally "the little hands"—aka the seamstresses at the atelier. These are the women who work tirelessly to create the gorgeous couture creations, spending hundreds of hours hand-sewing beads and fabrics for a single garment. Their dedication to detail is remarkable, their talent endless, and yet they rarely get the recognition they deserve. True, Lagerfeld may be the one who thinks up the designs and themes of each collection, but without les petites mains, the couture clothes would never come to be.
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| The atelier on display via Vogue Runway |
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| Finale looks via Vogue Runway |
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| Lagerfeld's ladies via Vogue Runway |
See the Standout Looks from the Collection:
See the rest of the collection here.
Shop Chanel:
Which look was your favorite from the Chanel Fall 2016 couture show?
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| Christian Dior Fall 2015 Haute Couture via style.com |
Let's discuss the Fall 2015 shows, then, shall we?
Armani Privé
With blindingly vibrant shades of neon pink, electric blue, and radiant green, "Shocking" truly is a great title for the Armani Privé Fall 2015 couture collection. Armani's collection was deeply inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli and her signature hue, "shocking pink" (hence the title and the abundance of pink on the runway). This collection was full-on 80s luxe, with strong shoulders, androgynous forms—from the abundance of suits right down to the shaggy pixie cuts of the models—and a powerful, eye-catching color palette that can only be described as a cool sunset.
This being a couture collection, there was no expense spared, no detail deemed too extravagant. That meant lots of feathers, sequins, crystals, and velvets. Luxe, indeed.
As is usual with Armani Privé, we will be seeing plenty of these designs on red carpets in the coming months, and I cannot wait. Whoever is bold enough to wear these stunning designs (I especially cannot wait to see the final dress in action) is sure to make a splash.
Chanel
As usual, the set at the Grand Palais was incredibly creative and cheeky; for Fall 2015 couture, head designer Karl Lagerfeld had models walk through a Monte Carlo-style casino where Chanel muses like Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, and Lily Rose Depp sat at poker tables, gambling away while identical, robotic models passed by. Robotic being the key word here, because many of the early looks in the show were 3D-printed and created with computer technology. With handmade detail being so integral to the institute of couture, I'm not quite sure if 3D-printing technology has a place in high fashion, but you've got to give it to Lagerfeld for always being innovative and ready to try the newest thing.
Stylistically, the daytime looks at the Chanel show just did not do it for me. Their odd stiffness is better explained when you consider the use of 3D-printing, but to be honest I often feel this way with Chanel shows as of late; the first half of the collection is repetitive at best, always the same tweed skirt sets and 1920s shapes that have been Chanel staples since the era of Mademoiselle Coco herself. The creative process might have been an innovative gamble (if we are to go with the casino theme) but the tweed suit is hardly a risk.
But the second half. That's where the magic is with this collection. From frilly cocktail dresses to decadent gowns, these are the clothes that are going to sell with the couture crowd.
Also, can we just talk about the la mariée suit worn by it-model Kendall Jenner? That is how you take elements of Chanel tradition and have some fun and innovation with it. Here's hoping some celebrity or high-fashion favorite is getting married soon and wanting to wear this, because this wedding suit needs a moment.
Christian Dior
Raf Simons is one of the—if not the—best designers in the business. He outdoes himself with each collection he delivers for Christian Dior, and to think I have gone from being skeptical of his appointment to absolutely ecstatic each time he does something new is crazy. After delivering a knockout resort collection in Cannes, Simons has done it again with the Fall 2015 couture collection. He has an obviously minimalist approach to haute couture, which at first I was nervous about (how can one be both minimalist and opulent and luxe enough for couture?) but I have come to appreciate how Simons has time and time again managed to make wearable, commercial, but no-less extravagant clothes for his couture collections at Dior. I think it's easy to confuse high fashion with high concept, and it's nice to see that there's a way to present straightforward, beautiful clothes that are going to impress.
Part 60s hippie, part modern medieval princess, and with a touch of New Look tradition thrown in, this collection had a lot going on, and yet it all felt incredibly cohesive. As usual, Simons has taken up Christian Dior's interest in flowers and has used fauna as the starting point for many of his collections, but here it takes a less literal approach than it has in the past. There are floral motifs here and there, and the set definitely had references to flowers, greenhouses, and naturalist painting, but it's not the petal-like creations that Simons started out with.
If people were still comparing Simons' vision of Dior to Galliano's, they shouldn't be doing that anymore. This is the Christian Dior of Raf Simons, and it is incredibly successful. In fact, it's kind of crazy to think back on the days of over-excess to the point of tackiness. Now, Dior couture is just as luxurious, but you could actually see well-dressed women wear these pieces out and about. And even with couture, the pinnacle of high fashion, you should still want women to wear your clothes in real life. Simons has made that a reality.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab shows may not be cutting edge or innovative in the same way that other couture shows tend to be, but Saab has made a career out of the pretty, sparkling gowns that grace the runway season after season. One comes to expect plenty of lace, embroidery, and embellishment, and yet, each season one marvels at the fun twists in Saab's designs and the stunning color palettes. We may know what to expect out of an Elie Saab show, but we love it each and every time.
For fall, Saab went a vaguely Gothic route, with a moody color palette of glittering emeralds and rich burgundies, medieval dress styles, and golden crowns atop the head of every model. He also added fur trims to the sleeves of dresses for added autumnal flare. This collection will appeal to the large list of royals who flock to Saab's creations as well as Hollywood princesses. The burgundy caped-jumpsuit, for example, better make an appearance on the red carpet (perhaps the Golden Globes?) or I will be incredibly disappointed. Another beautiful turn from the man who loves to create beautiful dresses.
(all images via style.com)
What was your favorite collection? And be sure to check back for Part II tomorrow!
While the rest of the fashion world was all about China on Monday night, Karl Lagerfeld & the Chanel peeps were all about Korea. Chanel kicked off the Resort 2016 season with a destination fashion show in Seoul, and per usual, Lagerfeld went all out.
Inspired by both modern Korean youth culture and traditional arts and techniques, the collection was a hodgepodge of kaleidoscopic colors, simple tailoring, and urban edge. Each model looked like a modern-day anime fairytale, like they could have come straight out of a K-pop music video. With Lagerfeld's Chanel there's always a lot of fun to be had, and I really enjoyed how the designer combined modern motifs with traditional Korean fashion and clothe-making techniques.
Here were my favorite runway looks from the collection (there were a lot):
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| Raise your hand if you're a true 1790s kid |
There are few historical figures that have continually captivated me quite like Marie Antoinette. My first true introduction to the French queen was Sophia Coppola's fabulous film Marie Antoinette, which, granted, was not the most historically accurate, but did a wonderful job of capturing the pastel aesthetic of life as an absolutist monarch living the life in Versailles.
It was in middle school history that I learned the true fate of Marie Antoinette, and it really pissed me off to learn that such a chic individual was the target of such loathing and unified hatred. Homegirl was just trying to keep up with the other royals at court and wear the latest in mile-high hair fashions—heck, she was even trying to give everyone in France cake or Laduree macarons or something—and they return the favor by sending her straight up to the guillotine. #Rude. The way it was explained in my history class, Marie Antoinette was a cartoonish villain, doomed for her frivolous ways and the figurehead of a pretty intense smear campaign.
With Coppola's vision being a bit too hazy and my history books too simplified and one-sided, I found myself dissatisfied with my knowledge of the life of Marie Antoinette. So I turned to outside reading, first with Caroline Weber's fabulous book Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution, and later Atonia Fraser's Marie Antoinette: The Journey, upon which the Coppola film is based. Antoinette is the one historical figure who I will read whole books about and the first to make me realize how complicated issues of the past are. It's easy to dismiss her as a ditzy princess who focused too much on fashion and not enough on politics, but that's ignoring the fact that her husband was just not suited to be a ruler. More than anything, Antoinette fell victim to an outdated form of government simply by being born into it, and there was nothing she could do to keep the tides of history from changing.
Regardless of what you believe her political legacy is, there is no denying that Marie Antoinette was and remains one of the most influential fashion figures of all time. No one could rock panniers and powdered wigs quite the way that she did, and her influence in all things fashion echoed throughout France and Europe.
Over two-hundred years later, designers are still constantly inspired by Antoinette. From the pastel-colored hues that Coppola's film made integral to the image of Antoinette to gravity-defying skirts and headwear, there is no denying the staying power of Marie Antoinette's fashion choices. Every other season it feels like brands like Chanel and Dior are drawing from the fashions at Versailles for their collections (in 2013, Karl Lagerfeld even staged a show in the gardens of Versailles).
Marie Antoinette on the Runways:
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| MSGM | Céline | Chanel | Christian Dior | Prada |
If Marie Antoinette were alive and well today in 2015, what would she be wearing? My guess: decadent brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino mixed with innovative creations from Junya Watanabe and other avant-garde designers that aren't afraid to push the boundaries of fashion. In other words, Marie Antoinette would be a full-on fashion risk-taker. She'd be front row at all the couture shows wearing custom creations, and she would be on the front page of every street style blog stealing the spotlight with her fun headpieces and crazy outfits that would put the likes of Anna Dello Russo to shame.
Like the sound of that? Here's how to get the look of a Modern-day Marie Antoinette for yourself! Through on your most inventive outfit, take a 'gram of you dining on macarons at Bottega Louie (in a Coppola-approved dreamy filter, no less), and live the good life! Just watch out for any unruly citizens looking to take out well-dressed rulers.
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| Junya Watanabe top | Miu Miu skirt | Valentino earrings | Dolce & Gabbana iPhone case La Perla bra | Fendi purse | Sibling headpiece | Nicolas Kirkwood shoes |
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| image via collage vintage |
It seems that the fashion Powers that Be are really into destroying their clothes. Distressed jeans, patchwork details, paint splatters, you name it. Frayed edges are just the latest in a long list of distressed trends, but know that there is an art to this look. One cannot simply throw on a western-style fringe jacket and call it a day. No, this season's fringe is more of an artful undoing than flapper girl. Undone edges, I'd call it.
Like this Proenza Schouler dress below, where it looks like the dress is simply unravelling into perfect fringes as if it were taken off the loom midway through. Or the tweed looks at Chanel Haute Couture, where what would once be your grandmother's tweed jackets dissolved into 90s-style crop tops (Grams definitely would not approve, but it does look pretty cool).
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| Celine | Tory Burch | Proenza Schouler | Salvatore Ferragamo | Isabel Marant |
If undone edges aren't your thing, just add a bit of fringe here and there for the Spring 2015 take on the texture. Like the neckline of your dress or the hem of your tissue skirt, like Sportmax and Valentino have opted to do.
No matter how you fringe it, there's more to life on the fringe than suede and flapper dresses. Go for a modern, urban twist on the style and you will look 100% certified fresh.
What do you think of the new take on fringe?
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| Chanel | Sportmax | Thakoon | Valentino | Osman |
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| Giambattista Valli Spring 2015 Couture |
Like a flash of lightning, Paris Couture week has come and gone, but the clothes presented over the four days will echo throughout the year. Though the styles themselves are rather unobtainable for the average shopper, the trends and styles that debuted in Paris this week will dictate many of the trends that trickle down into brands that sell at friendlier price points.
One look I noticed at a few of the presentations? The face veil. Usually black, netted, and cut at the nose, the chic headwear (facewear?) accessories are vestiges of a bygone era when women really got glammed up and wore way more hair accessories than they do now. Face veils (veil masks? I'm not even too sure on what to call them) remind me of women in the forties smoking long, slender cigarettes and wearing black gloves and possibly plotting the murders of their husbands. Very noir, and very fashionable.
Chanel, Giambattista Valli, and Ulyana Sergeenko all featured black netted veils in their couture collections. I must admit that it looks cool, mysterious, and sophisticated, though I do wonder about the tan lines those could create.
What do you think? Would you ever wear a netted face veil?
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| CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Chanel, Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Ulyana Sergeenko |
"Alice in Wonderland. Utopia/dystopia. Edwardian. Urban tribe."
These were some of the notes I took while watching the Chanel Spring 2015 Haute Couture show (from my computer, of course, not from the front row—one day...). What a jumbled pile of notes and thoughts I had while I watched bare-midriff models traipse down the runway in the finest clothes in the world. For any other designer, the conglomeration of words and inspirations would feel like a jumbled mess with no real coherence, but this is Karl Lagerfeld we're talking about. Somehow, he always has a way of making seemingly unrelated and often dichotomous concepts come together in splendid form.
At the Grand Palais (per usual) the runway was decorated with hundreds of fake, mechanical flowers, like a vibrant dreamlike scene from a Disneyland attraction. The clothes were just as resplendent, full of metallic blooms and blossoming details as well as the design staples we have come to expect from Chanel.
There was emphasis placed on both past inspiration (Edwardian hats, evening gloves—perhaps Amal Alamuddin is to blame?—and 90's-style midriffs) and the dream of the future (electric colors, artificial flowers, inventive silhouettes), as well as some fabulous fantasy world that is all Lagerfeld's own.
In particular I found myself thinking of the new Peter Pan film and the character design of Princess Tiger Lily (controversially portrayed by Rooney Mara, but that's a whole other issue...) with the darkened makeup across the eyes and the colorful, exaggerated shoulders. The clothes are gorgeous and fantastical but also decidedly utilitarian, which I've come to expect from Chanel—the clothes will always be extravagant and decadent, but never will I look at a piece and ask myself, "Who would possibly wear that?"
And with the connotations of Tiger Lily and fairy princesses and far-off destinations, I came to the conclusion that the cult of Chanel is very much a tribe in and of itself, a collection of impossibly chic women who adore clothing and who dress in a very particular way, the Chanel way, if you will. They mix the urban and the traditional, they show their belly buttons off with tweed pencil skirts, they love florals but aren't afraid of an all-black ensemble either. One might say that the Chanel girl is a contradiction, but I believe that it is the contradictory nature of her style, the way she always keeps you guessing, that makes her so fascinating.
One doesn't look at a collection like this spring's and say that only one girl could wear all these different looks. Each look is a variation on a theme, made for different styles and different women, but all of them do fit into the Chanel brand, there's no denying this. Both Kendall Jenner and Ines de la Fressange (both Chanel muses) can pull looks from this collection that fit their personalities and their personal styles, but it won't be the same one. Or maybe it will be! That is the beauty of Chanel.
The most captivating looks of the collection were, for me at least, the three pictured above. Models Alexandra Elizabeth and Lindsey Wixson donned high fashion capes with their ensembles, looking very much like fairy princess superheroes, with their capes and latticed eye masks. If only The Avengers donned costumes like these, perhaps I'd be a little more interested.
And of course, there is the lovely hooded piece that Soo Joo Park wore on the runway, a brilliant feathered shrug that echoed the overall runway set. Between these three looks, I fell in love with the collection in a way that I rarely feel when it comes to fashion shows anymore. So often it comes to be about the consumer, about providing reliable products that are sure to sell, that true art in fashion is often set aside for profit. For this reason I am so thankful that couture week continues to exist, as it allows designers to explore their deepest creative desires without so much of the financial pressure. That isn't to say that this collection isn't a success; quite the contrary, I think both critically and economically this Chanel show stands out as a true win, but there is a beautiful sense of spirit in this collection that sometimes feel to be subdued during regular seasonal presentations.
In the end, what Chanel achieves is a little glimmer of true fashion magic—a challenging feat for today's consumerist-driven society—and once again I am delighted to be given just a glimpse of Karl Lagerfeld's gorgeous fantasy world.
(all images from style.com, edited by me)
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| Gucci Premiere | Michael Kors | Kaufmanfranco | Michael Kors | Valentino | Gucci |
What are some of Lively's 2014 highlights? She continued to dazzle as Gucci's spokesmodel in flawless custom creations from the atelier (and she's also a muse for Michael Kors), she launched her boho lifestyle website Preserve, and she's pregnant! She also was the hands-down Queen of Cannes, became besties with Martha Stewart, and is prepping for the release of her latest film, The Age of Adaline, about a woman who never ages (because of course not. Plus, it's an excuse to see Lively in period costumes). So she's had an amazing 2014 and I know 2015 is going to be even better! And she's going to be a mother, which is so exciting, and also that child is going to be beautiful. Ryan Reynolds as your dad and Serena Van Der Woodsen as your mom? That's just unfair!
Style-wise, Lively has perfected her personal blend of Hollywood glamour and modern bohemian. She'll show up in glam Veronica Lake curls and vintage-style dress one day and in a loose-fitting floral frock with wavy tresses the next. She's also totally won with her maternity style. Seriously, a baby bump has never looked this chic!
Blake aka the Queen of Cannes 2014
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| Gucci Premiere | Chanel Couture | Gucci Premiere |
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| Olcay Gulsen | Fausto Puglisi | Emilio Pucci | Yigal Azrouël | Black Top and Pants | Chanel |
It started back in the spring, when a virtually unrecognizable (and eyebrow-less) Jenner walked for Marc Jacobs in what some considered a rather scandalous outfit. In Paris she walked for Givenchy and Chanel, and from there the fashion industry went crazy with Kendall fever. She's landed coveted campaigns, walked in the top runway shows, and she's been featured in just about every major fashion magazine. At just nineteen years old Kendall Jenner has become one of the top models in the world, and that is no easy feat.
True, she's gotten by with a little help from her famous family, but personally I think she is talented. She's worked hard, and while she may not have started from the bottom, she is here and she is a fashion force to be reckoned with. Nepotism only gets you so far. Talent will take you further, and like it or not Jenner has it.
She's got fabulous personal style as well. She's a fan of black and white, and she's not afraid of playing up her best features. Whether she's wearing an elongating jumpsuit or up-to-there slits to show off her long legs, Jenner has already figured out what works best with her figure while maintaining a youthful personal style. It's a tricky thing that a lot of famous teens face—wanting to appear more mature than they really are—but luckily Jenner usually doesn't fall for the mature dressing trap. She looks gorgeous and current, and I know that 2015 will bring many more fashion successes both on the runway and on the red carpet.
Kendall Jenner is a controversial topic in the fashion model world. Do you think she has what it takes, or is her modelling career all thanks to her family?
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| Elie Saab | Chanel | Pamella Roland | Maticevski | Elie Saab |
A fan of Elie Saab and Chanel, Collins oscillates between breathtaking ballgowns and modern minimalist chic. She stunned in a purple watercolor Elie Saab gown at the Rome Film Festival—perhaps one of the best celebrity looks of the whole year! But she looks just as fabulous rocking a structured crop top or a new-look style gown in a vibrant orange.
Collins has also had one heck of a beauty year. Her of-the-moment bob is both mature and youthful, and adds a modern glamour to all of her looks, whether she is dazzling on the red carpet or just going grocery shopping. She's also a fan of a bold lipstick, so what's not to like?
What's up next for Lily Collins in 2015? She's been promoting her most recent film Love, Rosie internationally, but other than that she has a role in the upcoming, yet-to-be-named Warren Beatty film, set to be released next year.
Who do you think will round out the rest of the list?
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| Image via style.com |
Drawing from typical Tyrolean attire, models traipsed through the dining rooms and libraries of the baroque estate in lederhosen, feathered hats, and embroidered cloaks. Frocks made from curtains these were not; no, this was Chanel at its finest and most extravagant.
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| Flawless frauleins at the Chanel Métiers d'Art presentation in Austria; images via style.com |
Speaking of fairytales, the association with a fantastical fairytale presence becomes more apparent when one considers Lagerfeld's newly released fashion short-film that features Pharrell Williams and it-girl model Cara Delevingne as "reincarnations" of Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth of Austria, respectively. "Sissi" he calls her as they waltz in the twilight to a song that was written by Pharrell (and we get to hear Cara's lovely singing voice, too!). But it's also "CC" as in, the interlocking C logo and the initials of founder Coco Chanel.
Lagerfeld is an artist and a showman, as collections like this prove time and time again, but he's also a businessman. He'll find any way he can to associate his inspirations directly with the Chanel brand, from "Sissi"/"CC" to the interlocking C hand motions Pharrell makes while dancing, to an appearance by the legend Chanel herself (played by a plucky Géraldine Chaplin). There's no confusion: the Chanel brand is everywhere.
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| images via style.com |
No one does over-the-top quite like Lagerfeld, nor so well; from anyone else, this collection is ridiculous and out of touch with trends that will affect the masses. But mark my words, I pray to the fashion gods that a revival of the Tyrolean feather hat comes about, because it is actually an awesome look, especially when the Chanel girls pull it off so convincingly.
Watch Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne in "Reincarnation":
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| Stella McCartney | Celine | Chanel | Edun | Marc Jacobs |
So you hate sweatpants. Your mantra is borrowed from the brilliant mind of Karl Lagerfeld, who once plainly stated, “Sweatpants are a sign of defeat.” But sometimes, on your lowest days when you don't feel like putting up with the tortures of form-fitting fashions and high heels, you do consider the perks of those god-awful sweatpants that those less fashionable than you have no problem wearing, and you wonder if perhaps there is something to them, something comforting.
This is when you're at your lowest point. Eventually you come back to your senses and realize that there’s a reason why you reject sweatpants with a blind hate. But if sweatpants and the like are completely off-limits, what can a fashion girl wear when she yearns for something more comfortable?
The answer: a knit top and pants.
This outfit is fundamentally different from the schlubby outfits that the masses wear when they are getting groceries and want to show the world that they've completely given up. These sweater-suits, I'll call them, are championed by Phoebe Philo and Marc Jacobs, and we all know that anything Philo says is in, well, it’s totally in.
Both designers went for similar approaches to the sweater-suit: the top is slightly oversized; the pants, fitted with a slight flare at the ankles, and in the exact same color. Elsewhere, sportier interpretations were shown, with fitted knits in bright hues, but the idea is still the same.
To ensure that you look minimalist-chic rather than like you don’t care what you look like, pay special attention to accessories and beauty styling. A slicked-back bun or ponytail combined with dangling earrings or a statement necklace will make you look poised and put-together. I would suggest heels of some sort to elongate and keep the look from becoming too casual.
What do you think of the sweater-suit? Would you test out this look?
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