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Marni
At Marni the models were birds of a feather - or fur? Either way there were many references to the natural world and the coats of all sorts of creatures. Furs are standard fall collection fare, but Consuelo Castiglioni applied it in strange asymmetrical patches and in unnatural prints and colors.
The color scheme was rather utilitarian, but it's not a Marni show without some unexpected pops of color strewn throughout. There would be a parade of army green outfits punctuated by a hot pink monochrome look just to make sure you are always on your toes.
The final looks of the show were absolutely stunning in terms of innovation and construction. They appear to be natural and idyllic while at the same time futuristic and modern - the juxtaposition of the natural and the constructed world seemed to be a recurring theme throughout the collection.
Altogether this was one of the most inspiring and inventive Marni shows that I have seen. There is the usual attention to construction and shape combined with the offbeat quirkiness, but it is much more sophisticated and creative than ever before.
I can't imagine celebrities having any luck on the red carpet with these funky outfits, but I don't think that's the point of Castiglioni's latest collection. These are beautiful and challenging clothes, and I love it.
Fendi
Another designer to use copious amounts of fur was Karl Lagerfeld for his latest collection for Fendi. Of course, Fendi was founded as a fur house, so this makes sense. Compared to the punchy primary colors of the spring collection, Fendi Fall 2014 may seem a bit drab. I'm not usually one for such earthy tones, but I really enjoy how Lagerfeld has utilized them here.
There's a kind of retro-futuristic vibe going on here, like how people from the 50s thought the future would look. In what seems to be one of fall's prevailing themes, I can almost imagine Princess Leia wearing one of these looks while touring the galaxy far far away. But then there are go go boots and ladylike dresses and the most amazing fur baseball jacket ever which are not so much Star Wars and really more of a cool, retro-modern look.
In the end these clothes are sleek and lovely. Fashion editors are going to eat these looks up, and bloggers will not be able to get enough of that fur baseball jacket. Seriously, that is magical.
Prada is not a show that you immediately comprehend. Miuccia is an expert of creating thoughtful and at times confusing clothing that takes time to fully muster up a feeling about. Generally I get super excited for the Prada show and then turn away after the live stream has finished feeling a bit disappointed. It's never what I expect and I can never quite understand it the first time around. And if I'm being completely honest, the clothes are sometimes not the most generically beautiful, which is of course what makes them so difficult to digest on first viewing.
For the Fall 2014 show we had a bit of a hint as to what it was going to look like a few weeks ago during Men's Fashion Week, where several female models came out in looks of a very similar color palette to the collection today. Tim Blanks described Thursday's show as "Act II" in his style.com review, with this being the second installment to be inspired by the German avant-garde movement in in particular Rainer Werner Fassbinder's 1972 film The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant.
There was a mix of time periods here - on the one hand I could totally see Amy Adam's character from American Hustle fawning over the shearling coats in vibrant colors and the disco print silk dresses; on the other, there were the drop waists and fringe details of the Weimar era, where German avant-gardism flourished.
While not the cotton candy colored collection that was Spring 2014, fall feels very bold and glamorous in an entirely different way. And actually, I think this is one of the most "understandable" collections that Miuccia has produced in a while. That doesn't make it any less intellectual, but it is stunning and I can see that more easily with this collection. Which probably means I'll only love it even more over time.
*But actually, Prince Harry ain't married yet so there's still hope
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| David Koma | Clover Canyon | Simone Rocha |Mary Katrantzou | Erdem |
London Fashion Week came and went - I know, right! - and it left me feeling like quite the anglophile. Plaids and tartans have proven to be a lasting force ever since they first stepped back into the limelight this past fall as a grunge staple, but this season the check print has a decidedly traditional air to it.
At Clover Canyon and Mary Katrantzou, family shields and crests came back in a big way, and by two designers whose digitalized prints will bring traditional motifs into the twenty-first century. I have a feeling the Mary Katrantzou pieces are going to be especially popular among the street style set - it's totally a way to relive that English prep school fantasy in a more sophisticated fashion.
Simone Rocha created an entire collection that was inspired by the ever-popular Anne Boleyn, the second wife of the notorious Henry VIII and mother to Elizabeth I.
David Koma was less literally inspired by the styles of medieval England but there was a historical edge to the off-the-shoulder shapes of dresses; in fact, they were quite reminiscent of Aurora's dress from Sleeping Beauty, a hybrid of medieval and 50s dress shapes. Erdem showed similar styles but in rich brocades, and even included a fur coat that resembled a luxurious ermine coat fit for a queen.
All in all, there's a large sense of national and historical pride amongst the London collections, and I may be as American as they come but I'm all for a little bit of anglomania!
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| Michelle Harper attending shows in New York (photo by Chantal Adair for Elle.com) | Kendall Jenner making her runway debut at Marc Jacobs |
When I was twelve I was a little off-put when I saw skinny models in sheer tops traipsing down the runway like it was no big deal. I had just delved into the world of high fashion and the concept of of fashion being as much about nudity as it was clothing took some time for me to adjust to.
Nowadays it's really no big deal for me. Sheer tops are a thing and they don't always come with corresponding lingerie when shown on the runway. Fashion editorials feature topless models as much as Playboy does. Toplessness is not unusual to me anymore and as I look back on the middle school me who blushed just looking at Chanel runway shows and the occasional see-through top I wonder why exactly I was so alarmed by it all in the first place. After all, it's only a woman's body, it's not something unfamiliar or dangerous.
So what exactly is wrong with the occasional sheer top, anyways?
I found myself looking back on my first encounters with toplessness in fashion and asking the above question this weekend when the social media universe was all atwitter (on Twitter) over Kendall Jenner's runway debut at the Marc Jacobs show this past Thursday.
The eighteen-year-old member of the Kardashian clan was almost unrecognizable beneath a cropped wig and pale makeup that included bleached brows. Her involvement in the show was kept quite hush-hush until she stepped out into the spotlight, and even then I didn't recognize her as I livestreamed the show. It was only when I saw my twitter feed erupt with excitement over her first stint as a runway model that I did a double take and conclude that Kendall had indeed walked down the runway in equestrian-inspired trousers and an incredibly lightweight knit top.
The first thing I thought was: meh, I wish they had put her in a better outfit.
The second thing: oh, her boobs are out. People are going to freak out about that probably.
Big shocker: I was right about the ideas people were going to have regarding her somewhat scandalous outfit. People started freaking the eff out over Kendall's outfit. If you search "Kendall Jenner" and "Marc Jacobs" the majority of results focus on the fact that the young starlet exposed her breasts on the catwalk - and not, you know, that she just walked for one of the biggest names in fashion and did well. Kendall is getting called a bad role model and an attention whore (usually along the lines of "she's just like her other attention whore sisters").
Nice, people. Very nice.
While personally I would not opt to wear that outfit to my next lecture, there's a reason why Kendall is the model and I am not. If she feels comfortable wearing the outfit then go for it, girl! And it's not like only the celebrity wore a revealing outfit - she was but one in a long line of models that sported slightly-transparent tops for Marc Jacob's fall 2014 show.
In addition, one must consider the context. Many people tweeted about how disgusted they were with Kendall's choice in outfit, as if she went to Barney's and purchased it or had requested a see-through top. This was the outfit Kendall was given, and as a model it is her job to wear the clothes.
Consider the street style choice of Michelle Harper during NYFW: she wore a nude mesh top that similarly left her breasts exposed - and she was wearing it on the streets out in public. When I first saw her outfit I'll admit I was a little shocked, but it was more of a "Oh, that's something we don't see everyday" than an "AHH! Boobs!" Most commentators felt similarly about Harper - shocked not by the "obsceneness" of her outfit but rather by the rarity of such a look, and in the dead of winter no less. I think the main thing that came to mind for me was, Ohmigod, she must be freezing. That is true dedication to your look over fear of the elements.
So why are two cases of semi-toplessness interpreted so differently? I suppose the two most important factors are Kendall's age and celebrity. Granted, she is young, but she is average in age for a model and she is a legal adult who is capable of making her own decisions. On the second factor - her celebrity - I think the context of the outfit is important. It is her job to wear the outfit, rather than a choice to go out in public wearing it.
But in all honesty, would it be so weird if she did that either? I see plenty of women walk about sans bra and personally I like wearing bras (they're pretty!) but I can understand that bras can be uncomfortable and that some women don't like wearing them. And people don't really freak out when women choose to go without a bra, so I don't really understand why the level of sheer-ness affects how appropriate not wearing a bra can be. And it's like, people, it's no mystery that women have breasts whether you can see them through a shirt or not. They are there and we should stop fixating on them and on Kendall's outfit and instead celebrate the huge accomplishment that walking for Marc Jacobs is. Don't let anything - especially something as stupid as boobs - distract from that huge achievement.
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